Alex's berg take I

[antonio-malaga]

It looks very good. I like it

a greeting

[Jeepkid]

Sick spot, nice driving.

[AlexG]

Originally Posted by antonio-malaga

It looks very good. I like it

a greeting

Thanks man

Originally Posted by Jeepkid

Sick spot, nice driving.

Thanks









I got a set of dona's last week and glued them on. I have 20 packs in them so far and I like the way they work. I started by shaving sidewalls up to the last lug before the thread. They worked good but the front was rubbing and biding against the lower links also I found them too heavy. Sidehilling was good the front was loosing grip and pulling me downhill when digging. So I shaved the remaining lugs and sipped just a few lugs to try first. Changed my foam setup a bit too.

They worked awesome, as good and sometimes better than leopard in my local spot so I'll leave them on and see how they do with more runtime.

Here are the tires I have.

-2 khaos, 2 BC, 2 khaos-dona, 4 leopard, 2 rover pink, 4 worn out rover, 4 fresh rover and 4 dona's





I need to clean my tires after every session on the rock so the threads of my dlux hubs started to fail. Erik told me that they may fail, he knew what he was talking about. So I swapped some slw hubs in. I don't know yet if I'll redo some delrin hubs with more thread.


Some poser shot with sedona's on.

[Erik D_lux]

Do you have any brass inserts? If so, I think they would be the perfect solution to worn hub threads

[SkaldidDog]

On top of the cool tires, that's a great view out of your window!

[Tgreer]

Good work on your wheels, those really look sharp! That's an excellent tire collection, now it's just a matter of foam tuning once you get settled on your rigs weight!

[AlexG]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Do you have any brass inserts? If so, I think they would be the perfect solution to worn hub threads

I have some but SAE and I don't any 4-40 red al screw

On a serious note I drilled my hex kinda like lightweight stuff for go-fast and I'll lathe my rear hubs first to see how much I can really loose first.

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

On top of the cool tires, that's a great view out of your window!

Most of them stayed in my box due to the lack of wheels but I made a couple wheels lately and I had some borregos laying so now they are all mounted.


Can you believe this is known as the capital of Europe?

Originally Posted by Tgreer

Good work on your wheels, those really look sharp! That's an excellent tire collection, now it's just a matter of foam tuning once you get settled on your rigs weight!

Thanks Thommy, I like em too

I ran my losi in the same weight range so that's easier. I just don't have a lot of run time and tuning with pin tires because I don't use them a lot, they don't work in my local spot.















Yesterday I had a chance to run. I changed a few things, first I swapped my dona's arround and added some KW. Also I changed oil's of my front shock from 25 to 30 ( custom piston) and changed my front inner spring. I like running a little bit of inner limiter's in my shocks so the shaft is less prone to bend and with the berg I choosed to run some inner springs to try. So far I haven't noticed any downside and I can see that they help me to keep a good ride height for sidehilling so they stayed on the truck.

The truck worked perfectly, I pulled a couple lines I've never been able to pull before and on the first try and consistently. I don't if it's due to a confindence gain or tuning but it keeps getting better

I noticed a little rear axle side to side flex in bind and after a quick check turns out that the thread of one balls is stripped.




But that's not the main issue, with the 2mm lower chassis and the way it's assembled the chassis felt safe so I kept running. The main issue is my rear link mount. He grabs every rock he can when I try to recover from a rollover. The cf got to a point where it allmost splitted in two parts. Luckily I have some in my box and it's a quick fix. Now I know more likely witch holes I will use so I'll make a new one less catchy

[Tgreer]

Dang, I can't believe your rear mount takes that much abuse! My is just he opposite

I have an idea on the bottom, if you remove the bearings, then move the front links against the rear links leaving a larger gap in the middle, use a ti threaded rod for the middle and run a screw in from both sides. It looks like your bearings don't rub very often anyways, because the rod ends are taller than the bearing. Hope that makes since!

[GEARSCIENCE]

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

On top of the cool tires, that's a great view out of your window!

hey someone else noticed the view

[AlexG]

Originally Posted by GEARSCIENCE

hey someone else noticed the view

Yeah









My servo was getting really sloppy so I putted a new case. Also I cutted the full ring of my KW in half to run 5 half ring instead of 3 half and one full ring to get the weight where I want it.




I sapced my rear shock a little bit more to get them at the same width than the front. I ditched the plastic spacer for some Al balls and made a longer crossbrace. These two did stiffen the rear of the chassis a lot. I can even remove my rollcage crossbrace.



The brass bushings of my shafts are getting worn out too fast imo , they have two month and half of use (30~35hrs)

[ittybitty]

Last time I spoke to John he was working on replacement bushings made out of another material that would hold up better. Haven't heard whether or not they ever made it to production though.

[AlexG]

That's a good news, glad he's working to fix it. Any idea what the material is?

[roxx]

alex tu va supercrawl cet annee?

[AlexG]

Originally Posted by roxx

alex tu va supercrawl cet annee?

Pas cette annee malheureusement tu vas t eclater

[RcBro]

John has been working on some hardened steel replacement bushings for those whom tend to be a little harder on there bushings then others. They will still be softer then the crosses but should yield better results for those who need it.

I know personally John has the original set in his, and it comes down to learning how to drive with them from under driving and over driving them. I'm sure you noticed first hand they don't act like a typical CVD would and those little bushings are getting used! Once we start buying these high end items there will be some trade offs such as rebuilding that some may not be use to. If you truly have 30-35 hours of run time I personally think your doing damn good. That would take me 263 battery packs with my current setup. The high end motorcycles get rebuilt after every race as well as drag motors with every pass. Sometimes the best items work best on the course, but need attended to from time to time. For $35 you have a new rebuilt axle with crosses and bushings or just bushings for less and are in business, John does have them in stock and would love to help you out.

[SDS Customz]

So you wore out a servo, grated a link mount to about nothing, and trashed a set of bushings.n With Will's calculation I'd guess possibly a few new batteries may be in order as well!!

Sounds like acceptable maintain to me. I've had some guys claim they killed a set of bushings in 8 batteries and a few others in a couple dozen batteries. My sets prob have close to 60-70 packs through them in the last year and are like new. Driving style has a lot to do with it. The only way to get all of the steering is in the way I'm doing it, the draw back ismthat if I give you 65-770 useable degrees of steering you'all think ot should be able to hold up just like a 50' part- even when drivin harder. The simple answer is it won't without adjusting your driving style! The bushings are replaceable and the wear point for a reason, while they may not hold up to somas liking the shafts will never fail!(with proper maintain.)

In the near future I will have an even tougher bushings available. Sonfor those that still need a tougher part yet we will try and make those accomadations

[AlexG]

Originally Posted by RcBro

John has been working on some hardened steel replacement bushings for those whom tend to be a little harder on there bushings then others. They will still be softer then the crosses but should yield better results for those who need it.

I know personally John has the original set in his, and it comes down to learning how to drive with them from under driving and over driving them. I'm sure you noticed first hand they don't act like a typical CVD would and those little bushings are getting used! Once we start buying these high end items there will be some trade offs such as rebuilding that some may not be use to. If you truly have 30-35 hours of run time I personally think your doing damn good. That would take me 263 battery packs with my current setup. The high end motorcycles get rebuilt after every race as well as drag motors with every pass. Sometimes the best items work best on the course, but need attended to from time to time. For $35 you have a new rebuilt axle with crosses and bushings or just bushings for less and are in business, John does have them in stock and would love to help you out.

I noticed that they require a different driving style. And the more steering you get the more the wheels will "shake". Mine aren't pushed to their limits in term of steering angle and I try avoid as much hard dig at full lock.

I fully understand that hi-end component needs attention. I take care of my stuff. Rebuilding, cleaning, lubing.. These shafts have been degreased and lubed very often. Just tought they would last longer but you guys are telling me that they lasted long compared to some people.

Originally Posted by SDS Customz

So you wore out a servo, grated a link mount to about nothing, and trashed a set of bushings.n With Will's calculation I'd guess possibly a few new batteries may be in order as well!!

Sounds like acceptable maintain to me. I've had some guys claim they killed a set of bushings in 8 batteries and a few others in a couple dozen batteries. My sets prob have close to 60-70 packs through them in the last year and are like new. Driving style has a lot to do with it. The only way to get all of the steering is in the way I'm doing it, the draw back ismthat if I give you 65-770 useable degrees of steering you'all think ot should be able to hold up just like a 50' part- even when drivin harder. The simple answer is it won't without adjusting your driving style! The bushings are replaceable and the wear point for a reason, while they may not hold up to somas liking the shafts will never fail!(with proper maintain.)

In the near future I will have an even tougher bushings available. Sonfor those that still need a tougher part yet we will try and make those accomadations

The servo was allready floppy when I built the berg and as far as the batteries, I have 10 packs for the berg so they still in good conditions.

Like I mentionned above I just tought they would last longer but it seems that they lasted long compared to some guys.

Just wanted to have some clarifications.

[SDS Customz]

I guess that everyone has a different idea of long lasting. I dont drive alot, pretty much just comps. I dont know that ive drove all of my trucks together(scale and comp) 30 hours in the last 2 years. I just dont enjoy tooling around outside of the comp scene that much. You will prob want to upgrade to the newer steel bushings. They should still wear out and be the wear point so that you dont have to replace the cross and shafts. Hopefully just the bushings. But only time will tell. More berg shafts and new bushings are being cut at the moment.

[AlexG]

I cannot afford what the HD's will cost me. I guess they re not for me. It's like buying a ferrari then selling it because of the maintenance cost.

[klabeaume]

Have you thought about using one long ti kingpin for the lower link mounts instead of long screws? It might be a little tough finding one the right size but I believe they would hold up much better.