TorqueMaster BR-XL Big Brushed Power!

[BritAbrord]

Thank you for the info. I was going to run two as I thought I had too. I am using a spectrum dx6i radio. Do I not need to run a front and tear ESC ?? Can I just use one for both motors and mix it all on the radio??

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by BritAbrord

Sorry i have a question, but there's a lot of posts to check for an answer ( And I'm a Newbie ) I want to run two Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster BR-XL ESC's. Do i need a cut off For LiPo's?? If so any recommendations (Please)

The lipo cutoff is already programmed, you can plug and play.

Originally Posted by discgolferlee

john,
is this purely a software change or will this only be available on a newer version of the esc with hardware needing to be changed. In other words will past br-xl owners simply be able to upgrade firmware? thanks and sounds like an awesome awesome tool to have in the crawling belt

It is only a software change for the velocity lock if I implement my first technique, so at the minimum everybody can have a dynamic lock. More sophisticated versions will require an extra comparator on the MCU for zero cross detection, so I will only put that on a brushless controller.

Originally Posted by BritAbrord

Thank you for the info. I was going to run two as I thought I had too. I am using a spectrum dx6i radio. Do I not need to run a front and tear ESC ?? Can I just use one for both motors and mix it all on the radio??

With two ESCs you can have fancy dig and push mixing. Your radio can do it, so no reason to use only one controller!

[BritAbrord]

Thanks guys. Sounds like a plan.

[meinthe73]

John,

This esc has 80a continouse rating? Does that have to do with the battery c rating? IE. 3s lipo 6400 mah 30c, (6400/1000)x30= 192A? Thanks

[JohnRobHolmes]

Your battery rating matters because of the motor, a battery rated for 2000 amps does not indicate you need an ESC that handles 2000 amps.

Gear your brushed motor so it doesn't overheat, and don't worry about the rest.

[Propane]

I am concerned about the heat my ESC is giving off. I have a WP BRXL and 21t Rock Racer combo running on 3s. I am only building and tuning my rig so I haven't ran it long or hard with the setup. I have however spent a fairly long period with everything powered up as I adjust settings and such on the rig. Just sitting without any throttle the ESC will get warm almost hot to the touch. once I start driving the ESC gets way too hot and I have to shut it down. The 21t motor gets warm but not hot to the touch. The BRXL powers the RX and a winch. Steering servos are powered directly from a BEC. Any ideas?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Is your winch drifting at all? Try unplugging it and see if the heat goes away. Turn off holmes Hold if it is on. Try reflashing the firmware if all else fails.

Doesn't sound normal to me.

[Propane]

The winch does not drift at all, it runs on my 4th channel using a Heyok 2 position 6v controller. I will try disconnecting it to see what happens, as well as flash the firmware.

[JohnRobHolmes]

If none of that solves it, sounds like we have a bad inductor on the internal BEC.

[rcmedic]

John, if i was to send a mamba max pro , and a sc4x witn a sensor cable and a fan it would be $39 ti waterproof right?

[BritAbrord]

Sir John of the ESC
When calibrating two XL esc's we are told to not plug in the battery power, dose this mean the main battery power or dose it mean to remove the power wire from the RX plug? Sorry to ask but as I said I want to run two of your esc's and I don't want to mess it up.

[Anorak]

Hello!

Just bought a brxl for my tf2 but since I am waiting for new driveshafts I wanted to test the esc on my cup racer. I know this is not what the brxl is ment for but when you have a new toy you wat to play with it straight away. In the car I am running a silvercan on 2s lipo and futaba rx, the gearing is stock and the car is fine. I hooked the esc up to a computer with castlelink to reduce the throttle because I was going to drive it on my livingroom floor. While doing full throttle donuts and driting left/right i found the motor cutting out for maybe half a second when I turned the wheels left and right. Just like a hicup. I have not played to much with the setup on the esc, just turned the throttle down, aplied dragbrake, stealth mode and turned the Holmes Hold off. I wonder what this could be? I am a rc noob and are aware I might have comited som noobish mistakes. Bear with me

Terry

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by rcmedic

John, if i was to send a mamba max pro , and a sc4x witn a sensor cable and a fan it would be $39 ti waterproof right?

Sounds about right with return shipping

Originally Posted by BritAbrord

Sir John of the ESC
When calibrating two XL esc's we are told to not plug in the battery power, dose this mean the main battery power or dose it mean to remove the power wire from the RX plug? Sorry to ask but as I said I want to run two of your esc's and I don't want to mess it up.

Both power and RX plugs. One trick is to plug in the battery when you program, it can avoid the crosstalk and problems that sometimes happen when setting up two ESCs. As long as you have castle link handy, there is no worry about a calibration gone wrong. Just reset the firmware and try again.

Originally Posted by Anorak

Hello!

Just bought a brxl for my tf2 but since I am waiting for new driveshafts I wanted to test the esc on my cup racer. I know this is not what the brxl is ment for but when you have a new toy you wat to play with it straight away. In the car I am running a silvercan on 2s lipo and futaba rx, the gearing is stock and the car is fine. I hooked the esc up to a computer with castlelink to reduce the throttle because I was going to drive it on my livingroom floor. While doing full throttle donuts and driting left/right i found the motor cutting out for maybe half a second when I turned the wheels left and right. Just like a hicup. I have not played to much with the setup on the esc, just turned the throttle down, aplied dragbrake, stealth mode and turned the Holmes Hold off. I wonder what this could be? I am a rc noob and are aware I might have comited som noobish mistakes. Bear with me

Terry

If the entire rig shuts down I would say the servo is so fast that it overdraws the BEC, or your endpoints are maxxing out and stalling the servo. A cap on the RX could help, but otherwise it just sounds like the servo is bonking the internal BEC.

If it is just the throttle that stops responding, I don't have a good answer.

[Anorak]

Hey thanks for quick answer and awsome consumer service even though the problem is not with your product :thumbsup:

The servo is a fast one I did not know fast servos drew that much amps. I will try a slower servo or maybe install a ccbec. It will be like shooting mosquitos with cannonballs

Thanks again

Terry

[cruuk]

Very excited about this active modulation. Even more so if it can be accomplished with only a firmware update. Heres hoping there are no major hiccups on implementation.

[asiddd]

Very upset that declared The specifications do not match reality. When all assembled, it seemed very strange that when working servo drive hitec, the system reboots. Made measurements and horror of horrors, I was just in shock, in a place declared 6V 5A and have in fact 1A and 6V, 60A and only when powered by 2s lipo, how much it will be at Power steering 6s lipo??? 15-20A??? Did not expect that things cost $ 100 so be different characteristics.

[JohnRobHolmes]

The ratings depend on the operating environment, I would like to hear more about the testing methods and load you used. Send an email my way so we can discuss it further please. Your BEC ratings are way off what we measured. If we need to change specs or if there has been components changes without my consent I want to know.

[rcmedic]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

The ratings depend on the operating environment, I would like to hear more about the testing methods and load you used. Send an email my way so we can discuss it further please. Your BEC ratings are way off what we measured. If we need to change specs or if there has been components changes without my consent I want to know.

He probably doesn't know how to measure current, for the guy that gave bad raitings. You have to put a load on it and have a Ammeter. You can't measure current with no load.

[asiddd]

Originally Posted by rcmedic

He probably doesn't know how to measure current, for the guy that gave bad raitings. You have to put a load on it and have a Ammeter. You can't measure current with no load.

I did not leave a bad review ... I want to understand what the problem is ...

...He probably doesn't know how to measure current...

very funny...


A load test was performed using a Hitec 7955TG servo on 3S battery. BR-XL's internal bec starts to fade just after 1A of current, and delivers just a little over 5 volts @ 2.2 amps. Now how does that match with stated 5A @ 6V?
Reading the above posts, it looks like i'm not the only one who has a cutting out problem while steering a powerful servo (properly adjusted, in a small Vaterra Twin Hammers). So that proofs that my esc isn't faulty. I would like to hear you comments.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Give some specs of the wire lengths, methods and points of measurement, etc. Version of the ESC will help too, either a white sticker on the RX wire or inside the case. Your RX could be dropping voltage if you are measuring at the servo. If you are pulling the voltage right off the inductor or RX pads then we have a problem and I thank you for bringing it light. I'll do testing here and see if I can duplicate it. Could be a cold solder joint, could be a bad batch of inductors, could a slew of issues causing the dropout.


Multiple people with issues doesn't always prove an across the board problem. With enough ESCs in use there will always be issues. If we pull 20 or 30 from the shelf and find the same power issues, then I would agree that there is a problem.