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Old 10-22-2009, 07:22 PM   #1901
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What kind of runtime would I get out of the 7T and a 2200 25c 3 cell? I'm looking at making a rock racer, but cant decide what electronics to run
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:26 AM   #1902
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Default Probably shot my warranty but,,,

Well I didn't want any kind of glitching, and I wanted full power to the servo, so this is what I did with my CC BEC.

I cut the ends off of both the CC BEC and my DS8711 and wired them directly together using a DPDT switch inline so I can kill power to just the servo..

Works great,,,I can tune the rest of the truck without having the servo on or turn everything on for tuning/crawling.

I run dual Rooster Crawlers with one powering the Rx. I also use a Novak Dig unit.

Last edited by rmdesignworks; 10-23-2009 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:31 AM   #1903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
The timing may have shifted a bit. A hard hit or just vibration can do it.
You were correct, sir.
Both motors' timing have shifted about 1/64"-1/32". I'll clean em' up, lube em' up ,set em' back, and lock tight em' up.
Thanks for the help.

Last edited by Szczerba; 10-23-2009 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:21 PM   #1904
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I am going to run to 35t hand wounds on my bully.
Should i rotate the endbells or just wire them up?
I am looking to get the least amount of clod stall possiable.
Running a 13t front pinion and a 12t rear, Sidewinder esc.

Thanks for any info!!
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:12 PM   #1905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane_744 View Post
You were correct, sir.
Both motors' timing have shifted about 1/64"-1/32". I'll clean em' up, lube em' up ,set em' back, and lock tight em' up.
Thanks for the help.

Well I guess I couldn't see or something that day. The front motor timing was shifted but not the rear. So I fixed the front the Friday night before the comp.
The next day I progressed gate one of course one then a big puff of white smoke out of the that rear motor. Checked the timing lines then they were dead on 0. Swapped out the rear motor with a cheapo and the truck ran fine all day.

Had someone look at the brushes and they said they looked fine.
Any suggestions?
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:32 AM   #1906
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Hi John,
A couple months ago I sent you a crawl master motor of mine. I printed out my emails from you so you would know what's going on with it. I also supplied a prepaid shipping slip.
I have not heard or seen anything.

Keith Boelens
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:41 PM   #1907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLZ View Post
What kind of runtime would I get out of the 7T and a 2200 25c 3 cell? I'm looking at making a rock racer, but cant decide what electronics to run
I would put about 30 minutes, depending on rig weight and how you thrash it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenbelly View Post
I am going to run to 35t hand wounds on my bully.
Should i rotate the endbells or just wire them up?
I am looking to get the least amount of clod stall possiable.
Running a 13t front pinion and a 12t rear, Sidewinder esc.

Thanks for any info!!
You could just wire them up, just be sure they don't spark. I time them with the red post as positive, and the reversed motor may not like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane_744 View Post
Well I guess I couldn't see or something that day. The front motor timing was shifted but not the rear. So I fixed the front the Friday night before the comp.
The next day I progressed gate one of course one then a big puff of white smoke out of the that rear motor. Checked the timing lines then they were dead on 0. Swapped out the rear motor with a cheapo and the truck ran fine all day.

Had someone look at the brushes and they said they looked fine.
Any suggestions?
Maybe a bum motor? Smoke is never good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoder514 View Post
Hi John,
A couple months ago I sent you a crawl master motor of mine. I printed out my emails from you so you would know what's going on with it. I also supplied a prepaid shipping slip.
I have not heard or seen anything.

Keith Boelens
I received it If you recall our emails, I don't have replacements at this time. When my sensored outrunner is manufactured I will send you one for replacement.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:43 PM   #1908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
Maybe a bum motor? Smoke is never good!
Any suggestions? I don't have much experience repairing electric motors.I hooked it up to just a 7.4v lipo and still flames and smoke. It's a HH TorqueMaster Pro HW 35T with about 15 lipo packs on it. Ran on a berg with Tekin Fx-R and 11.1v.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:05 PM   #1909
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ok JohnRob, you planted this idea, so lets look at it.

right now under the winnie I have a novak Super duty and two 6 cell 3000 packs which get me all the way to the furthest crawl sight, and half way back so I am in the market for batteries anyway.

I just checked your site, and you have 2300mAh LiFe cells for $6. All I know about LiFe is that it doesn't blow up, and it is 3.3v/cell.

Question 1; I have a hobbico charger that does NiCad, NimH, LiPo, and Li-Ion. does LiFe count as Li-Ion, or is that something else?
Question 2; ok, so these are about as big as a regular sub C, so I could make replacement packs that would fit in the same location as the current stick packs, but be 2s3p to give me 6.6v and 6900mAh which I could hook to each of the battery connectors of the super duty and connect to eachother to power the charger at 13.2v and 6900mAh?
Question 3; in theory if it takes me 4000mAh to drive to the comp sight and back, i could charge a 2000mAh pack (giving a 900mAh) cussion for heat/non useable voltage, or would I be better off tring to make 2s4p packs to give myself 9200mAh?
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:34 PM   #1910
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I received it If you recall our emails, I don't have replacements at this time. When my sensored outrunner is manufactured I will send you one for replacement.[/QUOTE]

Can I exchange the crawlmaster for a unsensored motor? I don't want to have to buy another new speed control...

Last edited by spoder514; 11-01-2009 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:19 PM   #1911
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where can i find some 10t colbalt puller motors? i need 2 for my Losi moa
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Old 11-05-2009, 11:49 AM   #1912
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Alright... so I was looking over my Holmes Handwound 25t tonight based on this thread and Caring for your new Brushed motor and noticed it was negatively timed. (I got it second hand from here) So I moved it up to about 7* and tried running it. Now I am throwing sparks from the endbell ("the black plasitic part on the end" incase I got the term wrong). I *know* I am not timed negatively based on your images from the Care & Feeding thread you wrote sooo... am I doing something else wrong? I will try to post pics a little later after the Gym.
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:19 PM   #1913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane_744 View Post
Any suggestions? I don't have much experience repairing electric motors.I hooked it up to just a 7.4v lipo and still flames and smoke. It's a HH TorqueMaster Pro HW 35T with about 15 lipo packs on it. Ran on a berg with Tekin Fx-R and 11.1v.
Maybe it needs a comm cut and brush replacement, but I can't say without looking at it. Want to send it in?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hairba11 View Post
ok JohnRob, you planted this idea, so lets look at it.

right now under the winnie I have a novak Super duty and two 6 cell 3000 packs which get me all the way to the furthest crawl sight, and half way back so I am in the market for batteries anyway.

I just checked your site, and you have 2300mAh LiFe cells for $6. All I know about LiFe is that it doesn't blow up, and it is 3.3v/cell.

Question 1; I have a hobbico charger that does NiCad, NimH, LiPo, and Li-Ion. does LiFe count as Li-Ion, or is that something else?
Question 2; ok, so these are about as big as a regular sub C, so I could make replacement packs that would fit in the same location as the current stick packs, but be 2s3p to give me 6.6v and 6900mAh which I could hook to each of the battery connectors of the super duty and connect to eachother to power the charger at 13.2v and 6900mAh?
Question 3; in theory if it takes me 4000mAh to drive to the comp sight and back, i could charge a 2000mAh pack (giving a 900mAh) cussion for heat/non useable voltage, or would I be better off tring to make 2s4p packs to give myself 9200mAh?
4s is just right for a charger. I would run 4s2p or 3p for a nice brick of power.

You would use the LiFe charge option.

I would recommend more pack than you need for sure. Maybe regear or possibly just run the rig at partial throttle so it runs on 12v well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spoder514 View Post

Can I exchange the crawlmaster for a unsensored motor? I don't want to have to buy another new speed control...
The problem is that I don't have any right now. You woudn't need a sensored ESC, it would run sensorless no problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer - x View Post
where can i find some 10t colbalt puller motors? i need 2 for my Losi moa
Not sure, I am waiting for more armatures at the moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oSPANNERo View Post
Alright... so I was looking over my Holmes Handwound 25t tonight based on this thread and Caring for your new Brushed motor and noticed it was negatively timed. (I got it second hand from here) So I moved it up to about 7* and tried running it. Now I am throwing sparks from the endbell ("the black plasitic part on the end" incase I got the term wrong). I *know* I am not timed negatively based on your images from the Care & Feeding thread you wrote sooo... am I doing something else wrong? I will try to post pics a little later after the Gym.
Time it the other way, if your polarity is reversed then you will need to "negatively" time it for positive timing.
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:33 PM   #1914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
Time it the other way, if your polarity is reversed then you will need to "negatively" time it for positive timing.
I just double checked the wiring... I am running a FXR Pro and M+ goes to the side of the motor with red, and M- goes to the side with black. I also checked my TX, I have not reversed the channel. :? The only thing I cant do is check with a multi-meter since a don't have one and I am afraid a trip to Radio Shack is a bit beyond my abilities at the moment.

Last edited by oSPANNERo; 11-05-2009 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:04 PM   #1915
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Just try rotating the endbell the other direction, it can't hurt the motor any more than sparks
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:07 PM   #1916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
Just try rotating the endbell the other direction, it can't hurt the motor any more than sparks
Yeah... Next thing I know I catch the rug in my area on fire, then the whole building goes up and takes the motor with it. The Iraqis aren't really known for their fire fighting skills!

Alright... should the sparks go away completley or will there still be some inside the bell?
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:17 PM   #1917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oSPANNERo View Post
Yeah... Next thing I know I catch the rug in my area on fire, then the whole building goes up and takes the motor with it. The Iraqis aren't really known for their fire fighting skills!

Alright... should the sparks go away completley or will there still be some inside the bell?
Put it back where it was, I had it set correctly
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:19 PM   #1918
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With enough advance they can go away, but then you get more sparks when braking or reversing. Brushed motors are fun!
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:20 PM   #1919
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Put it back where it was, I had it set correctly
Bugger! How was I supposed to know that till I tried to break it????
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:58 PM   #1920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
4s is just right for a charger. I would run 4s2p or 3p for a nice brick of power.

You would use the LiFe charge option.

I would recommend more pack than you need for sure. Maybe regear or possibly just run the rig at partial throttle so it runs on 12v well?

the winnie is running on 14.4 now, the super duty takes two 7.2v packs.

4s was going to the charger via two 2s packs feeding the superduty.

my debate was 3p or 4p to have enough mAh vs. affordability.

also if LiIon != LiFe then I need to look into a new charger also.
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