RTR build CG3 - PICS INSIDE -Team BROOD Frenzy

[99xjlove]

I am still waiting for a few parts to get here hopefully this week. So I decided to work on a few small things. This is a sneak peak at what the paint scheme will have going on.

These were taken in the Dining room




Outside Pic in the Sunlight


And a full pic asembled of the fronts 8oz of weight total.

[99xjlove]

Finally today most of my stuff I was waiting for showed up. BWD lowers, and front bomb proof mounts. Vendetta rear shocks and soft springs today. Last week full pro knuckles, chubs, cvds, and 62t spur and some losi pinions.

[99xjlove]

Yeah I should have ordered the rear BP mounts when I ordered my fronts and links from BWD but i'll swap those out later. Just would have made mounting the links a little easier.

[99xjlove]

Alright I got a little update tonight. Finally got some work done on the crawler, after I worked on expanding my backyard course some. So tonight I got my BOMB PROOF shock/link mounts from BWD installed. I also installed aluminum Chubs, Pro zero Ackerman knuckles, and CVD's. Have to come up with some sort of steering linkage to make it all work. Don't have any extra 3mm rod ends right now just the 2mm lower link stockers from swaping chassis. Still waiting on a new servo with higher TQ. Of course a pic is a must.



And I installed my metal center locker. It was the only one I hadn't installed yet. I also installed the Hot Racing 62t spur gear along with a 10t pinion on my TEAM BROOD FRENZY. I figure most guys run a 66t rc18 spur and an 11t pinion wich equals a 6:1 gear ratio. With the 62t spur and 10t pinion that is a 6.2:1 gear ratio which is close enough. Another pic!

[martoediefroets]

Nice build
I like to know how the brood frenzy works with your setup.
My insane 370 is near its end and I am in for a new motor!

[99xjlove]

Better jump on it because he only made a limited amount and then he said no more!

[99xjlove]

So I finally got this thing back together so I could take it out and test run it. Still waiting for a few key parts and they will make a huge difference in how the chassis handles overall.

First thing I did today was add some stick on wheel weights to the inside of my rear wheels. 1.5oz each wheel.


Then I wraped them in electrical tape to make sure that they didn't go anywhere.


For a total weight of 4-7/8oz mounted


The chassis without whee/tire setup is 1lb 4.5oz


The full chassis is almost 1oz under 3lbs


Here are some stability shots.




And a little flex. This will be improved once I add my BWD LOW PRO lowers and some Traxas (1942) ends on both sides. It binds at the skid because my rod ends aren't flanged.




And the body unpainted.

[99xjlove]

I also got the body painted and was able to take it out for a test run today.

This is my hill climb to see how well it handles an incline. Somewhere around 40*.


And just some crawling/flex shots








And the obligatory roll shot!

[99xjlove]

Couple more pics just for fun. I ended up buying AMP Energy drinks at the store today and it just so happened to match.

[99xjlove]

I got some work done on the suspension for my rig. I ordered the BWD lowers and some traxxas (1942) rod ends. I went ahead and rounded the edges of the lowers just to make sure that it wouldn't get hung up on the corners. My old suspension would bind up so bad because I hadn't replaced the skid side rod ends with flanged ones. IMO that is all that needs to be fixed on the CG3 chassis.

Anyways I used 1 trax1942 long rod end on each side of the link. I also used a 3mm nut to space out the rod end at the skid side. This was needed to make the link almost as long as the stock one which was 85.5mm. The length of the BWD's ended up being roughly 1mm shorter.





I'll post the install pics later today.

[99xjlove]

Alright here is the final install. No more binding anywhere! I made the BWD link roughly 1mm shorter due to the BWD bomb proof mounts sitting out a little further than stock. Amazing product though!

[99xjlove]

I also redid my steering using a lower controll arm from the CG3 kit and 2 tra1942 short ends.

[99xjlove]

I ordered a new esc this week. Should be here Friday. Tekin B1-r. I am still waiting on some rod ends for my tie rod. Other than that not sure what direction to go next. Going out to crawl tomorrow after work. Hope to snap a few pics to post.

[EverettY]

You will love the B1R it's tiny and it's just an all around great ESC BTW I would recommend trimming the stock body up a little bit so it doesn't hit like the servo when flexing as that will inhibit how well it will flex. Here is an example of a trimmed body.

[99xjlove]

Yeah, my friend mike has the B1-r on his mini pro and I like the way the throttle handles. I'm working on trimming up my body, its not a stock grappler though. Its a mini lst2 ramunition. Trimmed up the front some more. Rear doesn't rub so far. Don't have much to test on but my backyard course.

[99xjlove]

Took it out and did some crawling tonight at a local spot. Rig did great. Didn't have another equally equiped rig to compare to. My friend mike brought his Pro but was having problems with his B1-r. No throttle but full servo response. Maybe Everett since you use the B1-r you may have some ideas. Also I've been noticing since I redid some stuff, when I get in a spot where Ibind i'm getting a clicking noise. Seems more like an axle problem but also may be related to the trans. Didn't start till I replaced the Spur gear. Maybe too tight or not tight enough on the slipper clutch? Any Ideas would be helpfull on both situations.

[EverettY]

Originally Posted by 99xjlove

Took it out and did some crawling tonight at a local spot. Rig did great. Didn't have another equally equiped rig to compare to. My friend mike brought his Pro but was having problems with his B1-r. No throttle but full servo response. Maybe Everett since you use the B1-r you may have some ideas. Also I've been noticing since I redid some stuff, when I get in a spot where Ibind i'm getting a clicking noise. Seems more like an axle problem but also may be related to the trans. Didn't start till I replaced the Spur gear. Maybe too tight or not tight enough on the slipper clutch? Any Ideas would be helpfull on both situations.

With the B1-R I can't think of what that would be... I'll look in the manual in later and see what I find. Were his batteries fully charged? If not that would explain it.... Is he using Lipo batteries? If so does he have low-voltage cutoff set on it?

I've had the clicking noise to... for me it hasn't really bothered me because it happens when it gets in a tight bind and some of the wheels are spinning while others can't. It has only clicked for me when it gets in a bind and I think that is normal when you have powerful motors

[papabash]

Originally Posted by 99xjlove

when I get in a spot where Ibind i'm getting a clicking noise. Seems more like an axle problem but also may be related to the trans.

Try putting longer bolts through your axle housings and put nuts on them. This will hold your axle tightly together and not let it separate when in a bind. The clicking may be the ring and pinion separating slightly when the axle case flexes.

[99xjlove]

Originally Posted by EverettY

With the B1-R I can't think of what that would be... I'll look in the manual in later and see what I find. Were his batteries fully charged? If not that would explain it.... Is he using Lipo batteries? If so does he have low-voltage cutoff set on it?

I've had the clicking noise to... for me it hasn't really bothered me because it happens when it gets in a tight bind and some of the wheels are spinning while others can't. It has only clicked for me when it gets in a bind and I think that is normal when you have powerful motors

Yeah he was using a low voltage cutoff. The rig ran fine last time he had it over here on my pile. He dicided to adjust a couple of settings from the base settings like added a drag brake and stuff. Then we get to the area and no throttle. Tried going back to the factory settings on the B1-r and no luck. He said that it was supposed to beep while setting up and it wasn't doing that. We rebound the TX and RX and still nothing. After that we also tried switching the throttle to the servo channel in the RX and using the steering to controll the throttle but that didn't work either.

Originally Posted by papabash

Try putting longer bolts through your axle housings and put nuts on them. This will hold your axle tightly together and not let it separate when in a bind. The clicking may be the ring and pinion separating slightly when the axle case flexes.

Awesome. That is exactly what my friend Mike said to me when we were out yesterday too. If it gives me anymore problems i'll do that. Thanks Bash.

[EverettY]

How long has he had the ESC? If he's had it less than three months Tekin will replace it providing he got it new. Tekin is really fast service. I've sent mine in twice and gotten it back within a week.