New Axial scx 24 deadbolt

[scaled]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

They fit just perfect! (still catch the nylon on the nut) If you were worried about losing a nut, I would stick a dab of Loctite blue on there. Sorry I misunderstood initially, those damn Lagunitas got me again last night!

And the only reason to drill would be if you were using the wideners. Because of the nut they come with’s OD is too wide.

I will give it a try. Never went beyond a visual inspection and there was barely enough to catch a thread when hand assembling.

[CaliCrawler]

I did have to lightly sand the six sides of 2 of the 7 mm plastic wheel hex so they would fit all the way in to the rc4wd stamped wheel. The other two were like a glove. Another option would be to find a non-locking nuts with a dab of the Loctite. In my experience they work better when there’s not many threads protruding. Let us know how it turns out!

[scaled]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

In my experience they work better when there’s not many threads protruding. Let us know how it turns out!

Got the wheels installed w/Goodyear MTRs. Threads are not quite through the nylock portion of the nut but I used loctite. Wish axles were 1mm longer but oh well. The stance with the wider and more offset wheels and tires is a big plus. Don't think I would want things any wider than this. Will run it tomorrow and see how it does.

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by scaled

Got the wheels installed w/Goodyear MTRs. Threads are not quite through the nylock portion of the nut but I used loctite. Wish axles were 1mm longer but oh well. The stance with the wider and more offset wheels and tires is a big plus. Don't think I would want things any wider than this. Will run it tomorrow and see how it does.

[jimbo74]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

Looks awsome!

Thank you!

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by scaled

Got the wheels installed w/Goodyear MTRs. Threads are not quite through the nylock portion of the nut but I used loctite. Wish axles were 1mm longer but oh well. The stance with the wider and more offset wheels and tires is a big plus. Don't think I would want things any wider than this. Will run it tomorrow and see how it does.

Agreed, those stamped wheels with the brass are way too wide! Too much axle drag.

[jimbo74]

Just got the mil stone spacers. Where does this part go?

[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by jimbo74

Just got the mil stone spacers. Where does this part go?

Once you take off the plastic 7 mm hex, remove the pin and then slide that brass spacer on the shaft, then replace the pin and then put the brass wheel spacer on. Voilà!

[jimbo74]

Ok, so I shaved those down a little hair. Back and forth on a nail file. They fit so tight on the front I had to force the pin in. I did not like that, so I removed a little material. All good now.

These things are wide! And heavy! Makes it feel a lot more planted. I have heard they won't work with the RC4WD stamped steel wheels? Hmmmm. Those are in the post already...

I did not have to enlarge the hub bore for the barrel nut. The barrel nut uses a 4.5mm hex head.

[scaled]

With the wider RC4WD wheels and tires the SCX24 goes from good to excellent. More planted and doesn't flop forward on the downhills. I don't find any need for more weight or a wider stance. Steering is definitely holding me back now. Will try the O ring mod and will start comparing servo dimensions. Shapeways has a linkage as well but would prefer steel.

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[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by scaled

With the wider RC4WD wheels and tires the SCX24 goes from good to excellent. More planted and doesn't flop forward on the downhills. I don't find any need for more weight or a wider stance. Steering is definitely holding me back now. Will try the O ring mod and will start comparing servo dimensions. Shapeways has a linkage as well but would prefer steel.

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That looks awesome with the nude stamped wheels!

The plastic linkage is just fine with my buddies O-ring upgrade… It is the servo that is the problem. Upgrade to the Emax with shape ways servo tray The stock servo has already burned out with the additional weight). It’ll change your life! More weight in the wheels and a few brass accessories (differential covers and if you plan on going metal steering linkage, definitely the brass knuckles! Unless you plan on fabricating a similar design to the stock links. I.e., not having the link from the servo attached to the knuckle.) The wheel wideners are overkill with the RC4WD stamped wheels (Ground clearance issues) Although a perfect addition when running the stock pizza cutters!

Here are a couple links to videos of my current version and set up. I think the next upgrade is definitely an ESC and radio. As you can tell by throttle control issues with the current stock electronics. Even though I’m damn good!


https://youtu.be/qVTRaACye1g


https://youtu.be/Nqjc1m6eznE

[CaliCrawler]

Our drinking club as a rock crawling problem....


And don’t forget everybody! Put that front bumper farther back… It comes stock in the middle hole, but has three to work with. You do the math.

[klampykixx]

I plan on doing the danally mod to my stock rims.

Basically cut the dish off th back and glue it to the front of the rim.

[jimbo74]

So...... with the rc4wd wheels, and mil stone adapters, I am looking @ quite a bit of additional weight.

Should I do anything to the power system or the servo to compensate for it? Or is it ok? Dang, this thing is quickly costing more in mods than what was originally paid for it. But.... that is always the case.. stupid toys..


Oh yeah, I do have a highly modded rc18mt and a mini revo that haven't run in years... anything I should steal off it?


Did another mod. Pushed my bumper back 1 notch. It was originally mounted on the middle.

Ok, so I really need to do something about the servo. Won't return to center at static, and is slow to turn while moving. Also seem to not want to turn as far to the right when moving. Off weight, it does fine.

The tires I ordered from rc4wd are 61mm tall, so a little over 1cm above stock. That's quite a bit.

I should probably start my own build thread.

And, what is the size of the allen needed for the oe screws? I want to get a legit driver, the L seems to be a quality unit, just gets tiring after awhile. I have oe traxxas L wrenches, and they aren't as good on quality. My MIP drivers are legit.

[CaliCrawler]

Just be careful going to wide! When I had the spacers and RC4WD stamped on, kept getting stuck on the differentials on the rocks.

1000% go with a E Max servo and servo tray from shapeways. Can also get it in brass. https://www.shapeways.com/product/V9...nt-for-emax-es


And the size of the stock hex head bolts are 0.05” and are M1

[scaled]

Can't leave well enough alone. Ordered a bunch of stuff for the 24. The wait begins.

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[jimbo74]

will have to keep a look out for the rc4wd wheels and the spacers to see if I am too wide...

dang, the .050 MIP is like $16..... haha, going to wait till next payday for more mods.....


can I use a Turnigy 390 or a Hitec HS56HB?

[scaled]

Originally Posted by jimbo74

will have to keep a look out for the rc4wd wheels and the spacers to see if I am too wide...

dang, the .050 MIP is like $16..... haha, going to wait till next payday for more mods.....


can I use a Turnigy 390 or a Hitec HS56HB?

There is a mount for the hitec on shapeways

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[spoo76]

My emaxx servo works fine with the factory servo mount. I just used longer screws. The servo horn is the same location as stock

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[CaliCrawler]

Originally Posted by spoo76

My emaxx servo works fine with the factory servo mount. I just used longer screws. The servo horn is the same location as stock

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I never even checked if it would fit!

On a sidenote… Order a sidewinder micro 2

Here are a couple videos with springs installed for the Droop. (& one without, pre spring angle test)

https://youtu.be/oK-LrHOYXmQ

https://youtu.be/vB83xkzblWU

https://youtu.be/31TJARdCBZg