3d printer for rc parts

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by vwdaveb

Back on topic. I'm with Mike. ZI have better luck with SD card. I need to get Octpi up and running. Soon will have my over engineered enclosure cabinet done.


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I use Octoprint on a Raspberry 3 B+ and haven't had any issues with it so far, I have a cheap webcam hooked to it too. I'm home when I print but I'm not always in the same room with it so I can check on it from the laptop or my phone.

My Raspberry on runs Octoprint and the webcam so I put OctoPi on it.

[JSterrett]

So, "refurbished" Monoprice Maker Select V2. So far, not impressed...

It smells like burnt electronics for one...

Rear panel of power supply / controller is missing all but one screw...

X axis guide bar (or whatever it's officially called) was not installed properly and wasn't even attached at one end...

Y axis end switch is out of alignment or there's a piece missing that's supposed to contact it... Just bangs against the back of the guides for like 10-15 seconds...

Will contact customer support tomorrow morning, but if this is indicative of their level of quality, I may just return it and get a kit from someone else. At least then I'd know it's built right, lol.

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[JohnRobHolmes]

Never trust a refurb printer! You probably need to reverse the Y direction in the slicer so it homes in the proper direction. That is typical. or your limit switch is missing the metal arm....

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Never trust a refurb printer! You probably need to reverse the Y direction in the slicer so it homes in the proper direction. That is typical. or your limit switch is missing the metal arm....

Never buy someone else s problems.

[whitrzac]

It was a bad night...

Calibrated the extrude, it was ~16mm short on a 100mm feed. Almost exact after calibrating it. 97steps/mm to 114steps/mm
Attempt 3 at a set of sand ramps came loose after 2/3 complete.
Hotend is puking plastic around the threads from the heatbreak and running down the sides.
Tried to disassemble the hotend while cool, fubared the nozzle.

Bought a genuine e3d block, mainly to use the fancy silicon insulator boots. The kapton tape isolation came off with the big ball of plastic and I don't have any.

Is there any reason to not use a stainless nozzle?

All metal heatbreak vs one with a ptfe tube? It looks like an all metal is needed for higher temp, but what about pla/petg? They're the same price...

[Gramps]

I run Linux and the only Windows machine I have is a netbook I use to program esc's, my gps, etc. I have Cura 3.2.1 for Linux but it's clunky and will freeze at times and just isn't a pleasant experience. Also have Craftware which is smooth and has some nice features. It just doesn't print as well as something sliced in Cura, but I'm pretty sure it's just a matter of tweaking some settings. Messed with Slic3r but not enough to comment on it at all.

Anyone have any suggestions for a good Linux slicer or should I just sit down and figure out the one of the above?

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by Gramps

I run Linux and the only Windows machine I have is a netbook I use to program esc's, my gps, etc. I have Cura 3.2.1 for Linux but it's clunky and will freeze at times and just isn't a pleasant experience. Also have Craftware which is smooth and has some nice features. It just doesn't print as well as something sliced in Cura, but I'm pretty sure it's just a matter of tweaking some settings. Messed with Slic3r but not enough to comment on it at all.

Anyone have any suggestions for a good Linux slicer or should I just sit down and figure out the one of the above?

I would try to resolve the issues with Cura.
I would look at your video card to make sure it meets the requirements and then the amount of memory you have in the system.

After that, Simplify 3D and Slic3r.

Slic3r is good too but has a different (less user friendly) interface.

Simplify 3D is very nice and has great support but it isn't free or Open Source.

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Never trust a refurb printer! You probably need to reverse the Y direction in the slicer so it homes in the proper direction. That is typical. or your limit switch is missing the metal arm....

I'll have to look and see if there's a limit switch in the other direction...

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

Never buy someone else s problems.

I refurbish and resell laptops for a living, and have great success doing so. If repairs/refurbishment are done correctly, it can be a great way to get a good piece of equipment for a significantly reduced cost. So to basically toss out an "all refurbs are bad" blanket statement is just plain wrong...

That being said, it's very apparent Monoprice failed miserably in this case...

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

So, "refurbished" Monoprice Maker Select V2. So far, not impressed...

Yup send that shit back - and if they got a reviews section be sure to include some pictures. Refurb or not that thing shouldnt have left the kitchen table looking like that.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

I would try to resolve the issues with Cura.
I would look at your video card to make sure it meets the requirements and then the amount of memory you have in the system.

Im finding with the Slicer programs this is a big issue. I have two HP towers running Win10. One uses the on board graphics card and the other I had to upgrade to an actual video card to use the most current GPU drivers.

My old HP tower ran XP - Cura had no problems with this at all as long as I used the v12 and under ones.

Win10 tower with on board video Cura is slow, takes a bit to load and I couldnt move things around on the build plate. I cant use above Cura 14 with out crashing it trying to slice.

Swapped over to the tower with a simple Nvidia graphics card and still on Win10 .... No problems with Cura at all for any version. I can move pieces around on the build plate, add multiple pieces and orientate separately and not crash the program.

A lesson learned in current software lol.

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Im finding with the Slicer programs this is a big issue. I have two HP towers running Win10. One uses the on board graphics card and the other I had to upgrade to an actual video card to use the most current GPU drivers.

My old HP tower ran XP - Cura had no problems with this at all as long as I used the v12 and under ones.

Win10 tower with on board video Cura is slow, takes a bit to load and I couldnt move things around on the build plate. I cant use above Cura 14 with out crashing it trying to slice.

Swapped over to the tower with a simple Nvidia graphics card and still on Win10 .... No problems with Cura at all for any version. I can move pieces around on the build plate, add multiple pieces and orientate separately and not crash the program.

A lesson learned in current software lol.

My problem is all I have are laptops both using onboard graphics. The one I use the most is an Intel I5 with 8 gig of ram. My other one is older but is an I7 but has LinuxMint 17, the I5 has LinuxMint 18.

I have Cura 3.3 beta on the I7 I'll try that and see what happens. So far I haven't had any issues with Slic3r, still tweaking it a bit to get the finish I want.

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

I refurbish and resell laptops for a living, and have great success doing so. If repairs/refurbishment are done correctly, it can be a great way to get a good piece of equipment for a significantly reduced cost. So to basically toss out an "all refurbs are bad" blanket statement is just plain wrong...

That being said, it's very apparent Monoprice failed miserably in this case...

I don't mean to question your skill level or integrity, you may be very good at your job, I have no idea, so this isnt personal.

However I have bought enough refurbished, starters, alternators and electronics to know that the quality control is never that good. Refurbished items don't have the margin as new so steps are taken to keep cost down. Also unlike new the volume of product isnt high so again steps are taken to keep cost down.

As a matter of past experiences, there are certain things that are not worth the risk to buy used or refurbished. Electronics are high on my list because visual inspection doesn't really show the use and abuse or wear of the item.

[mikemcE]

I will comment about Monoprice.
They are a reseller / importer of Wanhao. Their tech support and parts are nonexistent , I asked for a new SD card to replace the corrupted original, they offered to send me a whole new unit. I had one bar shifted in shipping, I reset it, went thru all screws , squared it all up and have zero issues. I got $100.00 off list on my 3plus, on a big sale. My understanding is Wanhao USA is even worse.


Hang up and Drive

[JSterrett]

So after a little bit of googling it appears the y-axis switch is missing the little lever...

I may see if they'll do a partial refund and just fix it myself...

I'll also check the box/packing material to see if maybe it's floating around in there...



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[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

So after a little bit of googling it appears the y-axis switch is missing the little lever...

I may see if they'll do a partial refund and just fix it myself...

I'll also check the box/packing material to see if maybe it's floating around in there...



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The big unknown -- Is that the only problem with the printer?

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

The big unknown -- Is that the only problem with the printer?

Who knows? It did act like it wanted to print, but I am still pretty much a beginner...

All 3 axis' moved smoothly (with the exception of the y-axis stop), extruder extruded, print bed warmed up. Bed/extruder gap was too high, even after bed leveling, but hopefully that can be adjusted (maybe in the settings?)...

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

Who knows? It did act like it wanted to print, but I am still pretty much a beginner...



All 3 axis' moved smoothly (with the exception of the y-axis stop), extruder extruded, print bed warmed up. Bed/extruder gap was too high, even after bed leveling, but hopefully that can be adjusted (maybe in the settings?)...

First square up the bed to the sides, you can manually turn the two uprights. Make sure the bed size is properly set in the slicer( height also).
It is a great machine for the buck, don’t fret!
This might help
https://youtu.be/aRdBnSbiu0Q

Hang up and Drive

[JSterrett]

Found the lever!

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[MasteroFlego]

Pull the lever kronk!

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[JSterrett]

Got it actually printing now...

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