3d printer for rc parts

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Why not? Just curious.

Last time I checked I'd have to get it custom cut and install spacers. Plus, glass breaks. It's a hassle that I don't feel that I need on such a small bet at least not at this time.

[whitrzac]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130mm-x-160...gAAOSw05taTuwU

Fits perfectly, leave access for the screws still. He has ones that almost fit perfectly(factory cut wrong) for $13 too. Bit of a pia to get at the screws on those.

I use mini binder clips to hold it down. Someone else was using double sided tape, but IDK about that...


I switched to a v6 head at the same time and it was within 1 turn on the screws for height. The stock screws aren't quite long enough for the factory head, but could be replaced with longer 3mm countersunk screws. Springs/etc are all long enough

[moondaddy]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Last time I checked I'd have to get it custom cut and install spacers. Plus, glass breaks. It's a hassle that I don't feel that I need on such a small bet at least not at this time.

Level that bed and print out the clip on spacer. There is one on thingiverse that you modify to the thickness of the glass. It's damn near stupid proof. Hell you can grab a $2 picture frame and rob the glass to see how it suits you.

This one here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Hmm...I wonder if something like this is available for the Monoprice Select Mini. Sometimes I think my bed isn't flat. I'm not going to glass.

Check Gulfcoast Robotics that is who made the one I ordered off Amazon

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Hmm...I wonder if something like this is available for the Monoprice Select Mini. Sometimes I think my bed isn't flat. I'm not going to glass.

For the mini, I would look at the BuildTak FlexPlate System.
https://www.buildtak.com/product/bui...xplate-system/


The magnetic base will help keep the stock heated bed from warping.
If you heated bed is badly warped, you should replace it before doing the FlexPlate System.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

For the mini, I would look at the BuildTak FlexPlate System.
https://www.buildtak.com/product/bui...xplate-system/


The magnetic base will help keep the stock heated bed from warping.
If you heated bed is badly warped, you should replace it before doing the FlexPlate System.

Thanks. I believe BuildTak is what I have installed now.

[whitrzac]

Stupid extruder motor took a crap. Then the one I bought was slightly longer and didn't fit.

They should have offset it to not interfere with the Z axis rod.

At least I have the one piece Z axis stepper motor/rod in now. The V2 has the nema17 holes already drilled out.

[MasteroFlego]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

Stupid extruder motor took a crap. Then the one I bought was slightly longer and didn't fit.

They should have offset it to not interfere with the Z axis rod.

At least I have the one piece Z axis stepper motor/rod in now. The V2 has the nema17 holes already drilled out.

You have a select mini?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[whitrzac]

yes

[moondaddy]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

Stupid extruder motor took a crap. Then the one I bought was slightly longer and didn't fit.

They should have offset it to not interfere with the Z axis rod.

At least I have the one piece Z axis stepper motor/rod in now. The V2 has the nema17 holes already drilled out.

How long or rather how much have you been printing to burn out the E stepper? Just wondering if I should start looking for a replacement soon, I've been beating on mine since January.

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by moondaddy

How long or rather how much have you been printing to burn out the E stepper? Just wondering if I should start looking for a replacement soon, I've been beating on mine since January.

Not long enough... I bought a replacement on amazon for $13. I'm not 100% sure it's the motor, but Ill find out tomorrow.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Thanks. I believe BuildTak is what I have installed now.

If you have the stock heat bed, it comes with a BuildTak surface that is glued to the heat bed.

With the BuildTak FlexPlate system, you attach a magnetic base to the heat bed which is used to hold down a removable spring steel plate. The spring steel plate has a BuildTak sticker on it. When you are done printing, you take the plate off and flex it to remove the print.

Here is the video that explains it:


Adding the layers of the magnetic base and spring steel sheet helps reduce warping of the heat bed.

The downsides:
The 114x114 kit is 6 mm smaller than the 120x120 build plate and the kit costs $40 plus shipping.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

If you have the stock heat bed, it comes with a BuildTak surface that is glued to the heat bed.

My Select Mini came with a raw, aluminum bed. It did not come with BuildTak.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

My Select Mini came with a raw, aluminum bed. It did not come with BuildTak.

Got it, The only one I have played with was second hand.

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

My Select Mini came with a raw, aluminum bed. It did not come with BuildTak.

Even more reason to use glass. The hard part is already done. Removing the build tack and adhesive was a PIA.

[Robbob]

Anyone play with this yet? Just curious, I like how I can skip a part if its failing and keep printing the other stuff instead of scrapping the whole job.
Printrun: Pure Python 3d printing host software


Im bored at the real job so browsing around for a way to run a slicer of some sort directly from an android tablet.

Im not looking to go the full Pi setup or wifi. It would be nice if I could grab my files off my drop box, run them through 'a' slicer on my android tablet and pit the gcode out directly to the machine either USB or through a SDCard setup.

Anyone know a way?

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

My prints just went to shyte. All was good until I updated to cura 3.3.1. Even with it importing my settings, prints started look like they where printing using larger layer heights and the layer where not adhering to each other.

I check everything that against what I had written down and they where all the same. After being pissed for two days I upped the temp by 20 degrees to 220 and prints are back to where they were.

Anyone else have a cura issue with the upgrade?

Circling back around. I have discovered all of the visual setting available under expert, including the new ones available. Between that and some tuning I really got this printer producing consistently at .1mm layer height.

Time start some calibrations.

[whitrzac]

Figured out my extruder issues.
The heatbreak was sloppy in the heatsink, causing it to overheat and partially plug. Used thermal paste on the threads and everything looks to be working properly again.

Stupid Chinese tolerances.

[Gramps]

My new Y plate arrived today hopefully tomorrow I can get it installed.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

Figured out my extruder issues.
The heatbreak was sloppy in the heatsink, causing it to overheat and partially plug. Used thermal paste on the threads and everything looks to be working properly again.

Stupid Chinese tolerances.

Sounds more then just tolerances. Did you check the thread piece that screws into the hot end? Maybe something happened to the teflon sleeve inside and is allowing heat creep? Is your fan coming on correctly and/or at all?

My heat sink is cut in half, I only half 5 fins of it compared the full stepper size it was. Fan blows on it but even thats modded to hang near it and not on it.

Thermal paste is more to equal heat over an area out, not really dissipate it or keep an area cooler.