Maslin's Bomber Not-Ready-To-Run Build

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by maslin

Ready to go for tomorrow. This should help with traction roll

Dropping from 5.75" Pitbulls to 4.20" Pitbulls will mathematically drop my top speed from 22.5 to 16.4mph. 4s will bring it back to 21.2, bumping up a pinion to 14t will take it to 22.9.

Well see how it goes. Smaller, lighter wheels should spin up faster we well. One of the other guys is going to run 2.2/3.0 paddles, should be entertaining.

In a weird way it looks good with those tires.

Looking forward to seeing the video on that run.

[SCREAMER]

Oh man, I can't wait to see that video.

[maslin]

Sick 4 year old cancelled my fun for the weekend. I have ordered an 18t pinion, should be close to the same speed on 3s with the little tires. I will try 4s as well, but I have to borrow a battery, I only have 2s and 3s laying around.

Dropped a spring weight on the secondary in the front, now at Green(soft) primary, Blue(super soft) secondary. The limited travel in the front makes tuning hard, but I was getting quite a bit of bounce on bigger landings. The cold temps are screwing with shock oil too, so I don't want to get too extreme in chasing it down.



How is everyone keeping their roof in such good shape? Mine gets ripped over the front screws every time I go out. "Stop crashing at high speed" isn't an answer

[generalee7]

Originally Posted by maslin

How is everyone keeping their roof in such good shape? Mine gets ripped over the front screws every time I go out. "Stop crashing at high speed" isn't an answer

Aluminum roof. I made one out of .025" alum which might be a little on the thin side but it holds up better than plastic!

[maslin]

Spent the last week tuning and cleaning things up. Dropped the front spring weight down a step on the secondary, much much better. Fresh body for the Kraton, lesson learned... don't back Spaxstix mirror chrome with silver flake backer, it melts the chrome



Also fixed "I can't use 4s, I don't have a charger!"



Attempted 12s, as instructed in one of the many Bomber battery threads, it's a no go



So on to the track. Short course tires are the answer for traction roll, it's a different truck. Geared up to 18/64, it's about the same as before. Truck was doing really well, still can't keep up with the SCTs



Then it skidded to a stop.



Another broken housing



Torn down, inner pinion bearing was about 2 minutes from grenading.



New housing, new long side axle. Bent the axle at the bolts, brand new last week



Hopefully some video forthcoming? Had the drone out, couple of other cameras too.

[SCREAMER]

No beef tubes?

[maslin]

Yeah yeah... I hate adding weight. At this point I'm tempted to give them a shot.

[SCREAMER]

I think it's still lighter than full aluminum axles. I vaguely remember seeing someone that offered aluminum beef tubes but can't remember who now. Maybe someone else will know?

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I think it's still lighter than full aluminum axles. I vaguely remember seeing someone that offered aluminum beef tubes but can't remember who now. Maybe someone else will know?

Not sure as well on the aluminum but RC Bros has Brass tubes IIRC.

I'd also say 50% of that break was from that white stuff and being cold out.

[Erik D_lux]

Man, the thing that sucks the most is that the shaft gets destroyed. A couple bucks for a plastic housing is somewhat acceptable but throw in the $35 or so for a set of shafts and that really sours the deal.

Ever thought of throwing my front truss on there? Youre looking at about 1oz for the truss in total but you would get to subtract the weight of the existing pieces youre taking off too.

If you have never seen my front truss up close, there is a thick, 1/4" Delrin piece that goes in the spot right where your housing broke. This obviously reinforces that spot a ton.

[sic1to]

G10 if ya get the Dlux truss!!! It is super beefy compared to the cf

[Alexander_0_1]

Sorry Maslin,

Hey D_lux, do you have one of those trusses that can accommodate a dual shock set up, I lost the furthest front shock mounting bracket when I switched to the Curries?

[maslin]

I'm trying! Site keeps saying my postal code doesn't match with bank records

If only I could remember my paypal... Paypal won't cooperate either. "Sorry — your last action could not be completed"

[SCREAMER]

I vote G10 as well. I just installed one of DLux's rear trusses on the AR60 for my Yeti build and it most definitely adds a ton of strength.

[maslin]

It's on the way. Thanks Erik

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Alexander_0_1

Sorry Maslin,

Hey D_lux, do you have one of those trusses that can accommodate a dual shock set up, I lost the furthest front shock mounting bracket when I switched to the Curries?

If youre talking about the difference in the Wraith style shock mounts vs. the Bomber style... the truss will only work with the Wraith style since the truss would be in the way of the upper hole. I dont have a Bomber but seems like that furthest hole would be a weird place to mount another shock? Maybe I didnt understand your question?

[maslin]

I think he's asking if there is a way to mount a second shock to the truss. It would mount on top, in from the ends 20mm or so.

[Creepy Inc.]

Originally Posted by maslin

Front MIP clearance. Hits the rear screw boss on the RX box, trimmed it down. Hits the upper link screw, spaced it out. Barely clears, doesn't seem to rub.

Mine did the same thing, one of these fixed it MIP 5mm Drive Hub, Long, - Super Shafty

[maslin]

That's the Wraith length one, it bottomed out the splines. My reduced ride height creates all kinds of problems

Added a Revo 2.5 with a 3.3 to the stable for free Now when the Bomber implodes and all the Kraton batteries are dead I can drive for another hour or so

[maslin]

Got the truss, spent a few hours getting it on. Had a few pieces of hardware missing, I'm sure erik will get it sorted out.

Made some temporary all thread links, they're going to change a bit when the second top spacer gets here.

There's a good gap at the ends to the chub screws, threw some spacers on there from the parts tree. I have some interference at the tie rod, the rod end hits the truss limiting the steering a bit.





I added 2 jato ends (instead of a jato and revo) on the lower links. The packaging of the truss allowed the wheelbase to move out a bit and helped the MIP shaft as well.





Hoping to make it out to the track this afternoon, the Bomber has broken every single time. Let's hope for better luck this time.