(HH) Tech Questions and Customer support thread

[tat2INDY]

im running a hustler super with 2 mm's, 2 hitec 5995tg's {that hum bad} ,2 55t brushed motors, and a nomadio sensor rx.
randomly my super will stop and the remote will say low receiver battery, it happens on a full charged lipo, i've tried running 2 lipos on to each mamba max,and it still does it, i dont know why, so as of now i'm rebuilding it , will a bec help any ? if so should i use 1 or 2 ? and i'm not sure exactly how to wire them, the nomadio has 4 channels , 2 for the esc's , and 2 for the servos , can i use a y harness to plug in the bec ? if so ,where should the other end of the y go to a servo or esc?
will a servo with less torque help with my power issue? and is it better to solder the battery leads together and use 1 battery or keep the esc's seperate and use 2?
sorry for all the questions , but i would appreciate any help you could give, thank you

[Doodoob]

Well while I was waiting for the BEC to show up that I ordered from HH I decided to hook up my new Hitec 5955. I have been running a Hitec 645 and wanted to see the power of the digital titanium servo. Here is my setup, OG Revolver, Quark Pro Car 33, Maxamps Lipo 1290mah 3S3P 11.1V Pack, Futaba 3PM w/2.4 FASST. Can the new servo cook the Quark by pulling too much power? I just cooked both of mine and have no idea how.............. I thought maybe the first one just went bad or had some wires touching, so I inspected and didnt find anything. Then I tried my backup and it fried also.
Please help!

[HaSharetz]

I am just about to order a BEC from you and I'm going to have you do the programing but I don't know what voltage to to have it set to.
I will be using a Hitec 645 servo, the spec's give torque a two different voltages, 4 & 6.
I was thinking of having the BEC set for 6.2V for just a little more power to the servo but I don't want to fry it. (I am assuming the the servo Engineer used a safety factor in the design and that over-powering a little would not be too detremental)

Thanks

[WheelChair]

Is it at all possible to get Lucien Miller's E-mail @ Inov8tive Designs?
I lost his addy in that computer crash I lost your e-mail with.

Could you please send his e-mail to powerwagon440@comcast.net ?
Thanks!

He wanted me to give a review of the S-3032 with the extra bearing and I just have to let him know how well it is working.

This things weighs a ton, probably close to 20- 25 lbs.
Yet, I can not get the motor to stall or roll back. Startup is unbelievably smooth with the MMM and 4C a123 and the power is enough to make anyone laugh like a little school girl!


WC

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by Mule

I don't have a camera right now, but will get a pic.

Basically, it charged OK the first time and now won't take a charge. The ICE wouldn't start the charge, it gave me the voltage too low error. That's when I checked the voltage again and it was still at the 3.3 and 3.4.
...

I assumed the Teken R2 had a cutoff, but I don't think so.
Thanks
Greg

That would be the problem, the battery got ran down too far. When they are "dead" lipos should be around 3.5 to 3.6v. You might be able to bring them back, but I am not familiar with hot to do it.

Originally Posted by tallyram

i just built my ax-10 kit and need a motor and esc. i have always used brushless in other applications and would like to stick to that theme. i really don't know what to choose yet, but based on the info on this site i would go for a quark 33, a crawlmaster 1000kv, and (2) thunder power 3s 13c 1320mah packs run in parallel .this is my first crawler and would like to get the power package right the first time! i will be using the tcs battery plates in the front. will the crawlmaster have to much power and break things often? also will the crawlmaster be a direct bolt on using the axial out-runner mount? thanks in advance!

The Crawlmaster will bolt up to the standard motor plate, no need for the outrunner mount. Two of those batteries should work just fine, and a quark 33 is a good choice if you have one.

Originally Posted by nigels_world

John my 5 turn on 3s gets pretty warm. I want to get a heat sink for it but since its not 540 size I'm not sure what to get. What do I need to be looking for.

You can simply bend a normal 540 heatsink to clip on.

Originally Posted by hardheaded

not sure if you got my email. would like an update on my order, #1754. payment has been cleared since 5/20/08. also could we just ship items when motor is available.

one more question. i have a mamba max esc. what do you recommend for the settings.
motor: 55t
battery: 8 cell 2/3a 1500
servo: 5955 TG
axial trans: 87/14
vf dig w/ 225MG
ccbec at 6v
radio: dx3r

thanks

The shipment is held because of the backordered 7t motor, otherwise all good. I expect the motors at end of this week or beginning of next at this point.

MM settings: no punch control, normal timing, max power, forward/brake/reverse, brushed mode, 100% drag, 100% brake

That should do it.

Originally Posted by Deezul

Looking into a motor for a semi-basher. Looking to jump it etc. It is an Axial Ax-10 rtr far from stock except electrics. Question is can I drop in your 7t cobalt puller? Do i need a better esc than the ax-1 immediately? And will it run on ordinary nicad and 2/3a cell packs?.........or should I go brushless?

That should work, but I haven't tried the ESC to know the gearing limits. It will run well on the stock nicad pack, but 2/3a cells will be hurting if you gear it enough for jumping. Another option would be a 21 or 19t handwind. Those are pretty peppy.

I don't think you want brushless unless you are strictly going for bashing.

Originally Posted by chrisjlittle

how long would a mamba max hold up to two 10t cobalt pullers on 14.4 volts in a 20 pound truck? Is that a terrible idea? I'd like my 1:6 scaler to have some serious balls.

Sounds fine to me, but the 7t version is all I can get right now. Still waiting for the factory to quote on a 10t run.

Originally Posted by Cubman

John, I tried to e-mail you, but the forum would not let me. I bought a mamba max 4600 kv combo and hyperion 3025-8 from you a long time ago. I use the CC 4600kv motor in my stampede, and the hyperion in my Twin Force. When I puchased the combo, it worked perfectly in my stampede. Every time I have used the mamba max/hyperion combo in my Twin Force, it works good, except it stutters at WOT, almost as if it is cogging. I use a regulator, so I do not think that is the problem. I recently decided to move the controller back to the stampede. The truck cogs horribly, with or without a receiver pack, no matter which battery pack I use. The radio is a Fubuta 3PM, if that matters. Do you have any suggestions? I talked with you about this a long time ago, but we never found a solution.

Have you tried reprogramming your throttle endpoints to the radio?

Originally Posted by STEEL_CITY_CRAWLER

i actually need new external wires put on my mamba max, as well. is this a service you could do? or should i send it back to castle?

thanks for the help.

That is something Castle will have to do. I can't solder those tiny little things.

Originally Posted by gs tunner

John I bought a hyperion EOS0606I AC/DC charger from you on 12/9/07 and have been charging every battery I have successfully on it from the day I got it. I have charged nicd, nimh, lopo and lead acid several times but today when I got home from the weekend and tried to charge my 5000mah 3 cell lipo all I got was OUTPUT CIRCUT PROBLEM so I tried every other battery I have with no luck. I even tried it on my car battery with no luck. The warranty says my selling dealer is my first piont of contact for warranty issues. So what should I do???

Sounds like warranty to me. I will have you send it straight to the distributor and I will send a new one to you. PM incoming.

Originally Posted by Deezul

Whats the latest on the 7t Cobalts? I ordered one last week. Just wondering

Still waiting on the machinist to finish as of today.

Originally Posted by tat2INDY

im running a hustler super with 2 mm's, 2 hitec 5995tg's {that hum bad} ,2 55t brushed motors, and a nomadio sensor rx.
randomly my super will stop and the remote will say low receiver battery, it happens on a full charged lipo, i've tried running 2 lipos on to each mamba max,and it still does it, i dont know why, so as of now i'm rebuilding it , will a bec help any ? if so should i use 1 or 2 ? and i'm not sure exactly how to wire them, the nomadio has 4 channels , 2 for the esc's , and 2 for the servos , can i use a y harness to plug in the bec ? if so ,where should the other end of the y go to a servo or esc?
will a servo with less torque help with my power issue? and is it better to solder the battery leads together and use 1 battery or keep the esc's seperate and use 2?
sorry for all the questions , but i would appreciate any help you could give, thank you

I would suggest that you get a BEC and power the servos from it. You could use a Y harness for this, just clip the red and black wires that go into the RX and put a BEC feeding the servo directly. Even getting one servo off of the MM BEC will help.

Originally Posted by Doodoob

Well while I was waiting for the BEC to show up that I ordered from HH I decided to hook up my new Hitec 5955. I have been running a Hitec 645 and wanted to see the power of the digital titanium servo. Here is my setup, OG Revolver, Quark Pro Car 33, Maxamps Lipo 1290mah 3S3P 11.1V Pack, Futaba 3PM w/2.4 FASST. Can the new servo cook the Quark by pulling too much power? I just cooked both of mine and have no idea how.............. I thought maybe the first one just went bad or had some wires touching, so I inspected and didnt find anything. Then I tried my backup and it fried also.
Please help!

It could very well fry the internal BEC, especially on 3s lipo. Do you have an RX pack or BEC to see if the ESC can still boot up with external BEC power?

Originally Posted by HaSharetz

I am just about to order a BEC from you and I'm going to have you do the programing but I don't know what voltage to to have it set to.
I will be using a Hitec 645 servo, the spec's give torque a two different voltages, 4 & 6.
I was thinking of having the BEC set for 6.2V for just a little more power to the servo but I don't want to fry it. (I am assuming the the servo Engineer used a safety factor in the design and that over-powering a little would not be too detremental)

Thanks

6v is normally my recommendation, but 6.2 isn't pushing it too bad.

Originally Posted by WheelChair

Is it at all possible to get Lucien Miller's E-mail @ Inov8tive Designs?
I lost his addy in that computer crash I lost your e-mail with.

Could you please send his e-mail to powerwagon440@comcast.net ?
Thanks!

He wanted me to give a review of the S-3032 with the extra bearing and I just have to let him know how well it is working.

This things weighs a ton, probably close to 20- 25 lbs.
Yet, I can not get the motor to stall or roll back. Startup is unbelievably smooth with the MMM and 4C a123 and the power is enough to make anyone laugh like a little school girl!


WC

Sure thing sir!

[hardheaded]

thanks for the reply sir. also thanks for the MM settings.

[tat2INDY]

thank you for the info ,,very helpfu,l once again

[Doodoob]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doodoob
Well while I was waiting for the BEC to show up that I ordered from HH I decided to hook up my new Hitec 5955. I have been running a Hitec 645 and wanted to see the power of the digital titanium servo. Here is my setup, OG Revolver, Quark Pro Car 33, Maxamps Lipo 1290mah 3S3P 11.1V Pack, Futaba 3PM w/2.4 FASST. Can the new servo cook the Quark by pulling too much power? I just cooked both of mine and have no idea how.............. I thought maybe the first one just went bad or had some wires touching, so I inspected and didnt find anything. Then I tried my backup and it fried also.
Please help!

It could very well fry the internal BEC, especially on 3s lipo. Do you have an RX pack or BEC to see if the ESC can still boot up with external BEC power?


The BEC and other parts showed up today. Sol per our conversation I hooked up the Castle BEC and one ESC is still alive........the other however is toast. Thanks for the help!

[xjman349]

John,

Thanks for taking time to read my problem.

I picked up a new crawlmaster today, got it installed etc (btw awesome tin that its in.) I got my ESC all setup its right I double checked it with a few people, however when I am full throttle and going forward there is about a second delay when I go into reverse. Its like a hiccup. I am using a Mamba Max, 7.4 2S Lipo. I have seen someone talking about their problem on here but I am not able to find it. Can you give me some things to work on. I know I wont be forward and reversing a ton however if I am going up something and start to get top heavy I will need to get on the reverse. Any advice or anyone elses advice would be super awesome.

Thanks!

[hlpressley]

Hey John I just placed an order on your site for a few things. I paid for the USPS Express shipping so it would be great if you could just maybe ship it today so I can have it tomorrow. I am trying to get my rig ready for a comp on Sunday and I don't have a chance without my Holmes power plant.


I would say pretty please but then someone would call me gay..... Wait I just said it so pretty please.


Paypal receipt # 2905-3813-3725-6495

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by hlpressley

Hey John I just placed an order on your site for a few things. I paid for the USPS Express shipping so it would be great if you could just maybe ship it today so I can have it tomorrow. I am trying to get my rig ready for a comp on Sunday and I don't have a chance without my Holmes power plant.


I would say pretty please but then someone would call me gay..... Wait I just said it so pretty please.


Paypal receipt # 2905-3813-3725-6495

Should be able to get it out no problem, only about 10 orders to process today.

Originally Posted by xjman349

John,

Thanks for taking time to read my problem.

I picked up a new crawlmaster today, got it installed etc (btw awesome tin that its in.) I got my ESC all setup its right I double checked it with a few people, however when I am full throttle and going forward there is about a second delay when I go into reverse. Its like a hiccup. I am using a Mamba Max, 7.4 2S Lipo. I have seen someone talking about their problem on here but I am not able to find it. Can you give me some things to work on. I know I wont be forward and reversing a ton however if I am going up something and start to get top heavy I will need to get on the reverse. Any advice or anyone elses advice would be super awesome.

Thanks!

Have you tried reprogramming your throttle endpoints? Is the ESC set for reverse lockout?

Originally Posted by Doodoob

The BEC and other parts showed up today. Sol per our conversation I hooked up the Castle BEC and one ESC is still alive........the other however is toast. Thanks for the help!

Originally Posted by tat2INDY

thank you for the info ,,very helpfu,l once again

Originally Posted by hardheaded

thanks for the reply sir. also thanks for the MM settings.

No problems! Glad that I can help out!

[MCSCOTT]

I searched and didn't find anything. Do you know right offhand where I can find some good info on motor timing, specifically with the Integys. Trying to help someone out, but I don't know enough about that type of thing.

[hlpressley]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Should be able to get it out no problem, only about 10 orders to process today.



Have you tried reprogramming your throttle endpoints? Is the ESC set for reverse lockout?







No problems! Glad that I can help out!

Thank You John! You are the man as always!

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by MCSCOTT

I searched and didn't find anything. Do you know right offhand where I can find some good info on motor timing, specifically with the Integys. Trying to help someone out, but I don't know enough about that type of thing.

I normally time at zero. ARe you looking for a how to, or just some info? If you want to advance your timing a bit you can put in about 7* advance for less brush wear and a bit more power without making reverse/brake eat the brushes big time.

[MCSCOTT]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I normally time at zero. ARe you looking for a how to, or just some info? If you want to advance your timing a bit you can put in about 7* advance for less brush wear and a bit more power without making reverse/brake eat the brushes big time.

Just trying to tell someone over the web how to put theirs back at 0*, but I don't know for sure how the timing marks are on those motors, and haven't been able to find a good pic to show him. We've been over everything on his ESC and TX and everything else and the only thing I can think of is that somehow his timing is off.

[xjman349]

The end point have been set and the esc is set to forward to brake to reverse. Basicly it happens every other time. If I'm going forward then reverse very quickly sometimes there is a delay. It kind of stutters and the goes into reverse. Thanks again for the help.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by MCSCOTT

Just trying to tell someone over the web how to put theirs back at 0*, but I don't know for sure how the timing marks are on those motors, and haven't been able to find a good pic to show him. We've been over everything on his ESC and TX and everything else and the only thing I can think of is that somehow his timing is off.

The brushes need to be in the middle of the magnets. The crimp marks on the can should line up with the middle and between points too. If he has a amp meter the motor will pull the least amount of no-load amperage at zero timing.

Originally Posted by xjman349

The end point have been set and the esc is set to forward to brake to reverse. Basicly it happens every other time. If I'm going forward then reverse very quickly sometimes there is a delay. It kind of stutters and the goes into reverse. Thanks again for the help.

Thats about all I can guess. I think it may be your reverse throttle endpoint, you may try resetting the MM endpoints once more. If it is a bit off it can make the ESC studder.

[MCSCOTT]

Thanks JRH, that tells me exactly what I need to know, I just couldn't remember how they are.

[xjman349]

Ok thanks for trying to help. Do you think if I bump up to a 3s it would help the issue

[JohnRobHolmes]

Doubful, seems like a hardware issue.