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Old 09-28-2011, 07:59 PM   #221
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That doesn't sound too heavy.

Was the initial problem with yours (clicking, etc.) a result of misalignment between the tube (and carrier bearing), and the trans housing?

Still checking in here often... dying to see what's next.
yes that was the initial issue I was having. it ended up being that I had to buy neew tubes because they were slightly bent, posible from sittin in a ware house. I'm almost ready to start working on beefing up the trans. I'm just waiting for some parts to show up then I can finish my initial testing and move on to the next step of design process.
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:14 PM   #222
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I noticed that a set of tubes I bought seemed swept forward. Although the outsides look a bit "melty", the insides were straight. It turned out that the flange's faces were not square with the tube. An easy fix, but I suspect (NOT an expert here) that they are/were pulling the parts before they are hardened up enough. At this price, I'm sure they have to hurry.

When I get the first max/mad in the lathe, I'll turn a thou or 2 off the faces, and see what shows up.

Sorry to seem impatient, but there is a very good reason: I'm impatient.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:24 PM   #223
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So I got my rear duel servo mount bolted up and ready to go. I think I've figured out the kinks in the servo mount so now I've got to do a quick redesign then the second test run. These ones hold but you have to modify the servo plate because my lenght measurment was off about 1/8 of an inch. I should have 4 new 200 OZ servos showing up next week along with a 2 1300 4S bateries then it will be back out the rocks for some testing!!!









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Old 09-30-2011, 07:59 AM   #224
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Here's my question. If I want to run two Servos at 6v on one BEC, setting the BEC at 6 v will supply 6v to both servos?

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Old 09-30-2011, 12:00 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abavuso View Post
Here's my question. If I want to run two Servos at 6v on one BEC, setting the BEC at 6 v will supply 6v to both servos?

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Wired in parallel (as usual) you will get full voltage (speed), but will share the available amperage (torque).

I'm really liking your mount. Looks bulletproof... I bet it is.

Is the original upper link mount tied to your new one?

Last edited by ekd; 09-30-2011 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:12 PM   #226
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So I should up the voltage so I don't loose torque?

Yes the original 3 link mount is used to firm up the front to rear push pull on the mount to help eliminate axle and trans flex I was seeing in infer load. So basicly, my thansmission will probly tie into the servo mount. That's what I'm thinking any how.

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Old 09-30-2011, 03:16 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abavuso View Post
So I should up the voltage so I don't loose torque?

Yes the original 3 link mount is used to firm up the front to rear push pull on the mount to help eliminate axle and trans flex I was seeing in infer load. So basicly, my thansmission will probly tie into the servo mount. That's what I'm thinking any how.

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Your voltage will remain constant, and high enough. What you want to avoid is sharing the available amperage between too many loads. I don't know how many amps your servos can use, but if there isn't enough available, you will "lose" (actually, never see max) torque. I doubt there will be a problem, but without specs, I can't say for sure.

With motors (servos, and even solenoids) V= speed, and A= torque.

I'm going to run mine straight from the A123s, so I'll have a lot more amps on tap than they can use (@6.6V).

Smart move tying anything you can together. That 3 point link mount is positioned nicely on the trans housing to help brace that whole assembly.

Edit: You gained boatloads of strength by using a few grams of already available plastic. The mark of good design.

Last edited by ekd; 09-30-2011 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:15 AM   #228
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So I got the transmission brace initial desing finished. Basicly I'll have two of these cut and one will go on either side of the transmission. I'll use longer screws and nuts to clamp the trans together between them. I'm thinking I'll use T6061 Aluminum at about 1/16th thick. This should be just enough to stop the housing from twisting and give me the ability to easily clock the tubes. Only modification I'll have to do is trim the width of the plate off the axle tube to start...

next up I've got a set of custom tubes I'm working out in CAD. Once they are done. the will bolt on to the trans brace in the original mounting position and then I'll have the ability to clock till my hearts content!!!

The Brace!
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:28 AM   #229
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Nice. Very nice.

This whole "Mad" thing is getting interesting...
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:30 AM   #230
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I found that you can't usually run more than 2 servos off one BEC, unless you have castle's CC BEC Pro.

The regular BEC is rated for 7 amps on 3S, and the pro is rated at 20 amps peak.

So, either grab a couple cheapo chinese BECs and run one per servo, or get at least one CC BEC per pair of servos.
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:05 AM   #231
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That's what I've been doing, I have one CC BEC for the front two and and 1 CC BEC for the rear two servos.

These are the servos I'm going to be using x 4

Model: HD-1201MG
Voltage: 4.8~6.0v
Speed: 0.16~0.14sec
Torque: 12.2~13.2kg/cm
Weight: 60g
Size: 40.7x20.5x39.5mm
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=9618

If I had the money to get 4 servos rated upwards of 300 or 400 zo I would go with 4 BEC's I'm thinking these should operate or. I took two of the stock EXCEED servos and pushed 7.2V to them and they perked up instantly! I don't really know if they can handle that kind of power but they were cheep.

I had 1 tower pro 386 oz servo on the rear axle but the boar burnd out! so unless I can find a new bord for it, I've got a dead servo!
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:23 AM   #232
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Heres the whol short side assembly that I've been working on. Just my first consept, i'm not too thrilled with it but you gotta start somewhere.
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:16 AM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abavuso View Post
That's what I've been doing, I have one CC BEC for the front two and and 1 CC BEC for the rear two servos.

These are the servos I'm going to be using x 4

Model: HD-1201MG
Voltage: 4.8~6.0v
Speed: 0.16~0.14sec
Torque: 12.2~13.2kg/cm
Weight: 60g
Size: 40.7x20.5x39.5mm
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=9618

If I had the money to get 4 servos rated upwards of 300 or 400 zo I would go with 4 BEC's I'm thinking these should operate or. I took two of the stock EXCEED servos and pushed 7.2V to them and they perked up instantly! I don't really know if they can handle that kind of power but they were cheep.

I had 1 tower pro 386 oz servo on the rear axle but the boar burnd out! so unless I can find a new bord for it, I've got a dead servo!

I've got one of these for a different vehicle:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18919

Model: TGY-1501MG
Voltage: 4.8~6.0v
Speed: 0.16~0.14sec
Torque: 15.5~17.0kg/cm
Weight: 60g
Size: 40.7x20.5x39.5mm

Same price, more torque. They can definitely handle 7.2v as well:

http://www.servodatabase.com/servo/power-hd/hd-1501mg

284 oz-in at 7.2v should do the trick.

Last edited by monkeyracer; 10-01-2011 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:21 AM   #234
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Well I was working on the transmisison brace and ntice that the rear didn't want to seam to spin very easy but the front seamd just free and clear? So I took took the axle apart and bearing parts just started falling on the table!!! I supose that would be why it seamed 55T were having trouble making the rig move!! these must have been bad for some time now because they are totaly destroyed.



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Old 10-02-2011, 07:05 PM   #235
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You got in there just in time!

I made a hand reamer to deepen the pockets of Rusty/pede housings to place x6mm bearings on the input shaft. 8XL/4S was eating them up... I suspect I'm flexing the shafts, getting angular loads.... They're very stout, now.

By eye, I can't tell if our housings are thick enough to take this, but I'll know soon. If so, you'll just have to find something else to break.

Kudos on this thread, and your designs.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:25 PM   #236
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ya know, this might be a better Idea thatn trying to desing something completly new!! If you got two burg long sides, you could trim one tube to the short side length. and use all the stock bearings and such. Since the burg will fit the axial knuckles everything else should swap over.

Down side is that it would cost about $75 to try it out. Of you could just get 2 long side stock Burg tubes and see what you can to with them. That would only cost about $30.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:50 PM   #237
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Too easy, too pretty, and (unless you work for min wage) entirely too logical.

Re-inventing the wheel can get expensive.

Did you get a quote in your proto?
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:23 PM   #238
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Quote:
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Too easy, too pretty, and (unless you work for min wage) entirely too logical.

Re-inventing the wheel can get expensive.

Did you get a quote in your proto?
No not yet, I'm still tweeking the design a little bit.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:13 AM   #239
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Now the next question of the design is shock and lowers mounts. Oh lets not forget the servos. If your a big spender, Stick your neck out and buy the 2 Bergs LOL.

Abavuso, are the Revo wheel hubs 8MM? Have and idea on bushings. The lowers and uppers are 8MM. why not make bushing from some of this material.
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:12 AM   #240
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I'm not sure what size the are I think 5mm but the hubs I bought are a perfect fit. The only issue I had was that I had to re drill the lock pin hole further up so that it would sit corectly. If you use a standard 1/8th hub you'll need a bushing. I'm thinking of ordering some of the mad beast stubs and c's to beef up the stub. I honestly keep bending axle stubs. They are really soft and easy to bend.

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