04-04-2011, 02:09 PM | #81 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Parker
Posts: 82
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Thats sick man.. just wait to you get over here to the Rocky Mountians.. Rig look good
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04-04-2011, 02:33 PM | #82 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
| New "Heart"
I was scanning through ebay and found a new in box CC Sidewinder Sport for $55 shipped. So looks like I'm going to have my 3S power after all. Ill get it all wired up and programed by the weekend So it will be ready for the comp on Sunday. Cant wait for her first comp!!! Looks like I'm gonna have to paint the house and finish packing tonight and tomorrow to I have time to wire, mod and test on Thursday and Friday . Only a few more days till the long drive! Last edited by Abavuso; 04-04-2011 at 04:25 PM. |
04-04-2011, 04:06 PM | #83 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: bridgeport
Posts: 738
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04-04-2011, 04:31 PM | #84 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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yea 3s power now all u need is some bent links i was looking and i was wondering if you could get pics of the axles with knuckles on and them off i might have an idea for clocking |
04-04-2011, 04:36 PM | #85 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
| I'll snap some pictures later in the week, I'm prety busy packing the house. I think I figured out the clocking, I just need to get a min to try. I need to pick up some AX-10 or venom plastic C's first also.
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04-04-2011, 05:37 PM | #86 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Parker
Posts: 82
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Sounds like you have the same idea I was toying around.. shaving off the molding C and putting an ax10 in its place |
04-04-2011, 06:05 PM | #87 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
| Either that or driling new tube mount holes to clock it about 5 degrees past center. I havent decided just how im going to do it. The plastic tube is actualy aboit 3/16th thick on the side wall so there is plenty for a screw to grab. The tough part is going to be getting the c perfectly centered for the dog bone. Perhaps some Jb pudy formed around the end of the tube then shaped for a perfect fit? This one is going to take some toying with.
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04-04-2011, 06:08 PM | #88 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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i have a used venom c - hub
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04-04-2011, 06:52 PM | #89 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Parker
Posts: 82
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Here is an idea I've been toying around with.. I know I can get copper pipe and fittings and braze them together.. Steel would probably be more ridged. but not sure if I could get all the fittings in steel.. or maybe I'm just gone crazy.. The inner bearings for the axles are right at 3/8" ( bearing are light grey in picture) I need to find out the ID on the slip on "C" to see if it would be worth trying.. link mount could be brazed on as well |
04-04-2011, 09:09 PM | #90 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
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That looks really cool but i wouldn't use steel, that's a lot of weight added to it. I would really use an aluminum tube. But you're good in the idea. | |
04-04-2011, 09:22 PM | #91 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
| Clocked C hub MOD
So fter examining an AX-10 C hub and the Venom Creeper C-Hub, I went with the venom C, it seams it's made of the same material as the MT axle tube plus more durable than the AX-10 plastic C-hub. Also the Venom C-hub is stock clocked at what I can see about 5 degrees and the inside of the C-hub has a hex pattern. First determine how much you want the axle clocked before you decide what 6 sides you will grind flat. First thing to note, the arms on the Venom C are longer than the arms on the molded C so you have to mount the C about 1/16th of an inch down the Axle tube once the C is removed. The Two things you need to do are, carve the axle tube into a hex shape to match the C-hub. Don't carve too much off because it will make it wiggle back and forth and will create slop. Go slow and trim a little at a time. Once you have the shape so that the C slides on snugly, you will need to widen the hold on the front of the Venom C so that the axle tube can slid through it. Once that is finished seat the C it in place about 1/16th of and inch past the edge of the tube or 1.75mm. Take a 2.5mm drill bit and drill a hole in the center of the C hub mount and use a 6mm long by 3mm .5 pitch screw with a washer on it to fasten the C to the axle tube. Mount the rest of the hardware and the tube to the trans and you're good to go. It looks like you could grind about 1-2mm off the edge of the axle cup and get more steering without hindering it's function. I've got some aluminum knuckles comming this week so I'll grind them and let you know. Now I just need to more Venom C-Hubs since I only had two laying around for some reason. Last edited by Abavuso; 04-05-2011 at 04:53 AM. |
04-05-2011, 07:48 AM | #92 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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i have 2 more
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04-05-2011, 08:29 AM | #93 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
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04-05-2011, 01:54 PM | #94 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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5 bucks on tower there 7 |
04-05-2011, 05:40 PM | #95 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
| Super Bully Question.
So I've been looking up Bully and Berg Axles and it strange to see that the Mad Torque tubes(at the mount) and gears look almost identical to the Bully and the transmission case is almost identical to the Berg. This leads me up to my questions: 1) Could one of you Super Bully owners measure your CVD(short and long side) from the end(trans side) to center of the pivot ball and post it up? 2) What is the thickness of the flat spot on the axles that slides into the diff? 3) What diameter bearings are in the Bully tube and Knuckle? If I'm correct, they should be a direct drop in with the exception of the knuckle portion. I'm sure I would need different bearings and knuckles. Hell, the tubes might even bolt directly on with a little grinding on the chassis side. |
04-06-2011, 08:56 PM | #96 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
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I got the Sidewinder droped in place, only problem now is that I'm getting a fair amount of glitching from the other servos when I wiggle the stearing. Could be my speed wiring Job. I think tomarrow I've got to go the LHs and pick up some more wire, plugs and connectors and i'll re wire the whole thing nice like.
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04-07-2011, 08:44 AM | #97 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood
Posts: 1,233
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i have a hitec hs-625mg if you want it for a little more torque in the back
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04-07-2011, 09:11 AM | #98 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co
Posts: 1,441
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If you looked back, youll see im pushing over 400 oz in the rearwith what ive got. Its not a good idea to double up diferent servos, speeds and torque. | |
04-07-2011, 10:07 AM | #99 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden
Posts: 2,588
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Plus, a 625 is only 94 oz-in, so even if you double it, it's not that much torque (enough to turn one tire for every two servos.) As far as your glitching, did you use a BEC? The sidewinder has a pretty weak BEC and gets worse on 3S. I had a totally different idea on clocking the axle, but I was going to wait until I made my new chassis to get the linkage figured out and mess with clocking at that point. I think the super bully CVDs might work, but I am betting not a lot of the super bully guys check out this thread. Might be a question to email RC4WD directly. |
04-07-2011, 10:54 AM | #100 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Jersey Strong!
Posts: 564
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Adam, nice thread man. Looking forward to seeing what it can do Sunday. I dont have many "precision" tools, but if you bring yours to the comp you are more than welcome to take some measurements from my Super Bully. |
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