3d printer for rc parts

[gonper]

Originally Posted by Gramps

What do I need to adjust here, this is a 200x200 print to test the bed tram (level). Guessing there is an adjustment somewhere to correct this. The printer is a PowerSpec Duplicator i3d Plus (Wanhao rebrand)

It looks quite well printed except the top right corner that looks that something may went wrong. but from that perspective and so low resolution is difficult to see what can be wrong.

There is another thing: The print is not centered on the Y axis, I do not know if you intentionally printed off center or you just have the wrong bed size on the slicer or your Y end-stop is not adjusted properly.

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by gonper

It looks quite well printed except the top right corner that looks that something may went wrong. but from that perspective and so low resolution is difficult to see what can be wrong.

There is another thing: The print is not centered on the Y axis, I do not know if you intentionally printed off center or you just have the wrong bed size on the slicer or your Y end-stop is not adjusted properly.

Guess my question wasn't entirely clear, my question was what do I need to adjust to get this centered on the bed. It's centered in the slicer and the bed size in the slicer is correct. The slicer I used was Craftware, have not tried it in another slicer.



My thought was like you the Y end-stop is not adjusted properly, but not sure how to do it.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Guess my question wasn't entirely clear, my question was what do I need to adjust to get this centered on the bed. It's centered in the slicer and the bed size in the slicer is correct. The slicer I used was Craftware, have not tried it in another slicer.



My thought was like you the Y end-stop is not adjusted properly, but not sure how to do it.

The end stop is the easy fix if your limit switch is adjustable but Im not familiar with that machine or its clones. Something tells me those machines arent set up that way though.

Other way I can think of is change the offset on your Y-axis to hot end center, make it less and the bed wont travel as far forward at start.

Maybe through the control pad screen under some setting. Or I know Cura has the setting too that you can change when you create a custom printer in the profiles.

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by Robbob

The end stop is the easy fix if your limit switch is adjustable but Im not familiar with that machine or its clones. Something tells me those machines arent set up that way though.

Other way I can think of is change the offset on your Y-axis to hot end center, make it less and the bed wont travel as far forward at start.

Maybe through the control pad screen under some setting. Or I know Cura has the setting too that you can change when you create a custom printer in the profiles.

Found these settings in the control panel



Changed the Y by -1 to start and it moved the print towards the front of the plate. Kept subtracting 1 at a time until it was on the glass with a little edge.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Guess my question wasn't entirely clear, my question was what do I need to adjust to get this centered on the bed. It's centered in the slicer and the bed size in the slicer is correct. The slicer I used was Craftware, have not tried it in another slicer.



My thought was like you the Y end-stop is not adjusted properly, but not sure how to do it.

The not centered problem is caused by Craftware defining a different spot for home (X0 Y0) than your printer does. You can get the part centered by adding this line to the start gcode in Craftware: G92 X-8 Y-1

This is a good starting point but, you may need to adjust the values for x and y to get it perfectly centered.

[JSterrett]

Finally starting to get some prints that I'm pretty happy with. Still room for improvement, but I'm not tossing 3/4 of my prints anymore, lol....

Also made a yarn bowl for my wife, she's way more interested in the printer now.



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Found these settings in the control panel



Changed the Y by -1 to start and it moved the print towards the front of the plate. Kept subtracting 1 at a time until it was on the glass with a little edge.

You are adjusting the steps per unit of travel. This will scale the y axis to be longer than the part is drawn. Put it back. The only one you will ever need to scale is E to adjust extrusion rate.

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

You are adjusting the steps per unit of travel. This will scale the y axis to be longer than the part is drawn. Put it back. The only one you will ever need to scale is E to adjust extrusion rate.

Thanks John

[JatoTheRipper]

Anet A8 or CR-10 (or Prusa i3 MK3)and why?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Not enough information. Depends on what you are making and if you want to spend time vs money. Prussa i3 is a solid choice. Cr10 is great price to volume, but they are fussy. A8 would be good budget choice if you want to spend the time (and money) making it not suck.

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Anet A8 or CR-10 (or Prusa i3 MK3)and why?

I thought a lot before my purchase.
I'm very happy with my A8, and yea it needs a little bit of attention to detail to get assymbled and consistent but now I know all about my machine and it prints pretty darn good.
I really enjoyed the diy part.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Anet A8 or CR-10 (or Prusa i3 MK3)and why?

What you going to do with it, how much you want to pay, and how much ease of use you want will be what determines the right printer for you.

I listed some of the +/-'s of the printers and my thoughts below.

Anet A8
+ Very Low cost
+ Ok print quality
+ Good starter printer for a beginner
- Closed source controller and firmware
- Quality issues
- Plexiglass frame
- Upgrades required for fire safety
- Community Support only

Creality CR-10S
+ Low cost ($500 range)
+ Better print quality
+ Big print area
+ Moving toward's Open Source for controller / firmware
+ Aluminum extrusion frame
- Some quality issues
- Firmware fire safety features not enabled by default.
- Only sold by vendors. You need to make sure that it is a Creality CR-10 and not a clone from another manufacturer.
- Community Support Only

Original Prusa i3 MK3
+ Lot of ease of use features such as recovery from power outages, mesh bed leveling, crash detection, filament jam/run out detection.
+ All Marlin fire safety settings enabled by default.
+ Removable spring steel build sheet with PEI sheet on both sides. Powder coated PEI sheets coming soon.
+ 2 year parts warrenty.
+ Prusa Chat and Prusa Community Forun support.
+ Aluminum extrusion frame
+ Multicolor/soluble support with the MMU 2.0 that is shipping soon.
+ Super quiet stepper drivers/motors.
+ Upgrade path to next gen will be available.
+ Open Source.
- Cost is higher $799 with shipping
- New features/firmware still has some issues that can impact print quality
- Long wait time to get one. ( Approximately 80 day wait).

I went with the i3 MK3 because I wanted to have multi-color and soluble supports. Mesh leveling and the spring steel build plate is great. The ease of use features are nice. Being a new model it has still has a few issues with the firmware to be worked out.

The CR-10 is a good value printer but needs some upgrades for fire safety. When buying one you need to make sure it is a real Creality CR-10 not a cheaper clone from another company.

The Anet A8 is a good starter printer but needs some upgrades to make it safe for unattended printing.

At the higher end of the scale the Lulzbot mini is a really nice printer from a US company with great support.

[CREEPERBOB]

I did upgrade to Skynet 3D 3.2.2 (open source) which allows for auto level, power shutdown and other important safety features.
I paid $149.00 shipped for my printer then spent approximately $100.00 more on upgrades and now have a dependable and safe printer that has printed everything I've thrown at it.
I'm very happy with my $250.00 printer .

[Robbob]

Ive had my A8 for two years now and have been very pleased with it. I wouldnt say I have anything that was needing surgical tool tolerances but Ive always had clean prints once I got things setup correctly and learned more along the way.

Currently I am fighting the bed and leveling after adding all the braces to it, Im ready to punch the thing in its face. Ive narrowed it down to (hopefully) being the rear brace I printed for it but other then that Im into it for around 350$ with the 2 mosfet mods and bigger power supply.

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Ive had my A8 for two years now and have been very pleased with it. I wouldnt say I have anything that was needing surgical tool tolerances but Ive always had clean prints once I got things setup correctly and learned more along the way.

Currently I am fighting the bed and leveling after adding all the braces to it, Im ready to punch the thing in its face. Ive narrowed it down to (hopefully) being the rear brace I printed for it but other then that Im into it for around 350$ with the 2 mosfet mods and bigger power supply.

I have had on and off moments with bed leveling, the Skynet upgrade helped with 90% of the issue. I even added more passes to the brim layer and actually dialed in the level on the fly for a,few prints
Just received a BL Touch sensor/probe in the mail today, hope this will take care of the other 10% .

[mikemcE]

I will say I picked up a lllplus the monoprice edition. With free shipping and a price of $249.00 new.
I did a MOSFET upgrade and a Micro Swiss . So all told with discounts and shipping I have $325.00 in it plus a trip to ACE for hardware for the Zaxis brace mod. I can crank out quality PETG and PLA prints without issues now.
For a decent larger cheap machine it is pretty good.


Hang up and Drive

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

I have had on and off moments with bed leveling, the Skynet upgrade helped with 90% of the issue. I even added more passes to the brim layer and actually dialed in the level on the fly for a,few prints
Just received a BL Touch sensor/probe in the mail today, hope this will take care of the other 10% .

Im on the fence with the touch probe. Its nothing bad against it, I just heard both sides and havent decided if its worth it for me yet though. Ill keep my eyes open on your input though if you post up.

[Voodoobrew]

I have the anet a8 and love it. upgraded the heating bed mosfet ($, soldered the heating bed wires (Free), added a fan to the power supply free from (old computer), amd turned it into a bowden drive (15$ e3d knockoff kit) . Pay attention when assembling and it should be good. 1 year later and I have not needed to tighten belts or had issues with the acrylic frame bending.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Just received a BL Touch sensor/probe in the mail today, hope this will take care of the other 10% .

I cheated on friday ... Ordered an auto leveling sensor and paid the extra for next day on my Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hooked it up, had to swap wires on the plug end around but Youtube'd a video and was off and running. Printed some bed level files to try things and went for a test part on my sporty rig. Part was .90'' thick/tall and it mic'd out to .901'' after printing.

[Hydrocarbon92]

I'm always surprised I see no mention of the QIDI Tech 1, which is basically a clone of Flashforge Creator Pro. It's not cheap but requires zero upgrades & comes 99% assembled. The most I've done is glass bed and little guides around the floating bed to dampen any vibrations.

The learning curve on a 3d printer is steep enough w/o having to mod it. Anyone that knows me knows I'm cheap, but I feel anything cheaper should be reserved as someone's 2nd printer.