Haastnooit's AXR10 2.2s NCD SuDu1 / SuDu1 FL

[Haastnooit]

When all stars line up correctly .... it will happen one day A summer comp it probably will have to be, as the fall and winter comps are not for me considering I have RA.

Well changed my mind about the rear shock mount position at the chassis. I tried to start with something different ... BUT ... I ended up with the exact same setup as my current one on the OG SuDu.

I moved the shock back to the lower row and the hole closet to the center of the chassis. I felt bellyclearance was a bit too much and the total stance of the rig too high ... no pics

[RockMafia]

Nice work Ronald :thumbup: ill be keeping a eye on all the FL builds as im still running the sudu one v2 and I sure sooner or later ill be going FL

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[Oz Bruiser]

Nice work mate. Are the wheels you got one of my designs or yours just out of curiosity.

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[vovo]

The pics and the build are top Ronald ,i order the parts by RC4WD for the new tranny for my rig today

Jan(SuDo Clan Holland)

[Haastnooit]

Originally Posted by Oz Bruiser

Nice work mate. Are the wheels you got one of my designs or yours just out of curiosity.

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Those are my own design ... But they look very much like one you made.

Mine is based on the original Queen design (page 7), I altered the slots to loose weight and the V2.1 Queen was Born (page 13). When I send he file to Tomi he also mentioned they look like a design you made. The position off the crossbraces in the design is different I believe ...

[Oz Bruiser]

Thres only so many variations available and alot do look alike. Your original design is similar though the internal spoke design is quite different. The LW version is very close to my 10 spoked design, is ok as both designs look great .

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[Haastnooit]

I agree only that many ways .... They do look very much a like, lucky we are on the same team ... As mentioned the screwposition is different in both designs.

Are you still making new designs ?

[Oz Bruiser]

I havent done anything new for a good while now. Just alot more busy with worrk and family and not as much time to spend on the hobby unfortunatly

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[Haastnooit]

I recognize your situation, life can get busy from time to time I Always say life and family comes first, that's what makes having a fun hobby possible. Good second (or third ?) place for RC crawling though You will find your time again, I am sure mate

I made some spaghetti today, those are for me and some fellow teamdrivers ... bon appetit

[Crawllife]

They are pretty Ronald! Carbon spaghetti would go great with my sudu 1 build;). I need to read more on weight loss and strength on these carbon uppers. I use TI right now. Homework for tomorrow I guess.

[TotoRax]

Originally Posted by Haastnooit

...I made some spaghetti today, those are for me and some fellow teamdrivers ... bon appetit

Miam, merci Nice Job

You use tube or rond CF?

[Haastnooit]

Thanks guys I use tube 4mm, with .75mm wall thickness

[TotoRax]

For link, tube are sufficient.
I use only rond CF for steering link, because it can receive shocks and to prevent that it is crushed

[Tomy]

I also used 4mm cf tube for upper links on my 2.2 Pro all last season with no issues.

[Haastnooit]

Originally Posted by TotoRax

For link, tube are sufficient.
I use only rond CF for steering link, because it can receive shocks and to prevent that it is crushed

Same recepy I used on my OG Sudu ... 4mm tube for links and 4mm rod for the draglink

Originally Posted by Tomy

I also used 4mm cf tube for upper links on my 2.2 Pro all last season with no issues.

What are the e2e lengths on your pro rig ? Only issue I had with the CF uppers, was a rear link popping of the ball at the linkmount once.

A set of 4 CF links for the FL comes in at 15 grams.

[TotoRax]

On my Margouillat Ar60 I have 150mm upper link in rear (e2e) and 115mm in front. These are the links longest that I manufactured and for the moment no problem, but I do not have any concern

With alu ball, you gain more gramme. Generally my links weigh 5/6g (for 2 links) with aluminum ball, or then, gravity is less strong close to the equator… it is possible or my balance weight is crappy…

[Haastnooit]

Being close to the equator has effect on gravity, at the largest diameter of the earth the centifugal force off earth spinning is countering the gravity more and make the gravity value less

However my scale has an accuracy of only 1 gram And is a bigger influence on accuracy I think. Using alu balls will shed about 2-3 gram a set, bringing me close to your measurements Don't think I will throw the alu balls in just now ... kinda bounded by budget ... BUT ... you got to have future plans anyways

[Haastnooit]

Slooooow progress only as I am waiting on some parts before I can really get on with it.

I am eagerly awaiting the NCD tranny to be able to finalize the drivetrain. I got some MIP driveshafts in my spare parts I want to use. I ordered some P-clips .25" (6mm) few days back that should be here soon. So next update probably will be a mounted Crawllife Grafix Xciter body.

Tonight I installed the CF upperlinks only ...

[Haastnooit]

Found another little thing to do

I just finished installing the RcBros KW holders for stock Axial XR10 knuckles. They are loaded with one .125" full ring and two .125" half rings, total 1.5oz (45 gr) per knuckle.

[WAM]

I've had failures with both CF tube and solid CF rod links. The tube cracked at the ends, releasing the long set screws. The solid rod never actually failed, but straight links started to bend and stay bent. My short front links have held up, but I had to replace the longer rears with Ti or aluminum. Might work for you, but just sayin'...keep an eye out.

BTW, it seems odd to me you would go so light on your links and then use MIP driveshafts.