Szczerba's FF-SZ 2.2s

[Szczerba]

Part number for the pede shafts? They don't split/bust driveshaft "ears" like the axials? Or they a different setup?

I think the JunFac shaft will work with grease. I might have to trim the "cups" of the junfac's a little.

[helhedded]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Part number for the pede shafts? They don't split/bust driveshaft "ears" like the axials? Or they a different setup?

I think the JunFac shaft will work with grease. I might have to trim the "cups" of the junfac's a little.

google much? link (don't order from barnes and noble )

They require the use of the driveshaft ring, but those alwasy seem to wiggle loose for me. Otherwise they will split just like the Axial ones.

Different situation, but the YJ runs pede shafts with the shaft rings and the yokes still manage to bust out.

[Almighty Malach]

Why not try Jason's method for maxx shafts? Drill the maxx yoke out to 11mm and press a pede yoke into it. That gives you 2 set screws and the longest possible shaft length.

*edit for link* Maxx Shafts made easy.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by helhedded

google much? link (don't order from barnes and noble )

They require the use of the driveshaft ring, but those alwasy seem to wiggle loose for me. Otherwise they will split just like the Axial ones.

Different situation, but the YJ runs pede shafts with the shaft rings and the yokes still manage to bust out.

Google this

Originally Posted by Almighty Malach

Why not try Jason's method for maxx shafts? Drill the maxx yoke out to 11mm and press a pede yoke into it. That gives you 2 set screws and the longest possible shaft length.

*edit for link* Maxx Shafts made easy.

Thanks for the suggestion and link. I'll check that out. Never done it but I'll see what's up.

The front driveshaft needs to be about 55mm.

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Here's the video, since a new page is started. Broke before run was finished.


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[Manning]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Part number for the pede shafts? They don't split/bust driveshaft "ears" like the axials? Or they a different setup?
.

IMO, they are quite a bit stronger than axial shafts. Yes, they still need the rings.

# 1953

TowerHobbies.com | 1953 Traxxas Long Truck 1/2 Shaft Pro Pak (6)

Originally Posted by helhedded

I have grown to hate the pede shafts. They twist too much and pop like popcorn with me behind the wheel.

Madman!

[corkysk8]

Just and ideal. MIP X-Duty for the front of a Slash 4x4 w/ a 5mm and 6mm drive hub. The length looks like it would work.

TowerHobbies.com | 10135 MIP X-Duty Female Spline Bone Slash/4x4

TowerHobbies.com | 10134 MIP X-Duty Male Spline Bone Slash/4x4

TowerHobbies.com | 08137 MIP Drive Hub 6mm E-Revo/Maxx

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Manning

IMO, they are quite a bit stronger than axial shafts. Yes, they still need the rings.

# 1953

TowerHobbies.com | 1953 Traxxas Long Truck 1/2 Shaft Pro Pak (6)

Madman!

Thanks.

Originally Posted by corkysk8

Just and ideal. MIP X-Duty for the front of a Slash 4x4 w/ a 5mm and 6mm drive hub. The length looks like it would work.

TowerHobbies.com | 10135 MIP X-Duty Female Spline Bone Slash/4x4

TowerHobbies.com | 10134 MIP X-Duty Male Spline Bone Slash/4x4

TowerHobbies.com | 08137 MIP Drive Hub 6mm E-Revo/Maxx

Double thanks! It needs to be around 55mm, so that just might work!

[Stormin2u]

I've been running Pede shafts for years with no complaints or problems, super light to.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

I've been running Pede shafts for years with no complaints or problems, super light to.

Thanks. I'll see what I can fab up or buy when I get back. I think the junfac I cut down won't work without the 5mm adapter. Diameter's are different.

I think I setup these lines up correct.

Setup as of right now, the front has alot of anti-squat in it. Instant Center (IC), blue dot is far away from the COG line.

Setup as of right now, the rear is closer to neutral anti-squat. IC, blue dot is close to COG line.
Since the picture is skewed a bit, I roughed out the front hub line, since I run a little caster. The rear lower link mount hole on the skid is behind the screw you can see on the side. That just secures the skid to the chassis.

[Jessf]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Thanks. I'll see what I can fab up or buy when I get back. I think the junfac I cut down won't work without the 5mm adapter. Diameter's are different.

I think I setup these lines up correct.

Setup as of right now, the front has alot of anti-squat in it. Instant Center (IC), blue dot is far away from the COG line.

Setup as of right now, the rear is closer to neutral anti-squat. IC, blue dot is close to COG line.
Since the picture is skewed a bit, I roughed out the front hub line, since I run a little caster.

only a vague idea of what you're drawing here. Interested in knowing more. please explain.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Jessf

only a vague idea of what you're drawing here. Interested in knowing more. please explain.

Talking about suspension link setup and how it effects squat/anti-squat. Which effects how your suspension puts your tires to the rocks.

This picture might help .

[Szczerba]

Just weighed this truck

5lbs RTR

Probably going to make up some more weights for the front.

[Szczerba]

First real outing for the FF-SZ. Truck worked awesome and the driver got lucky

Truck handled great. It's a little different getting used to the light weight. It's 5.0 lbs RTR.
The siped rovers and Crawler Innovation foams worked good on the slick rock and dirt mix of the ORV park.
The 91 spur and Holmes Hobbies 35T TorqueMaster get the gearing to just enough wheelspeed with plenty of torque.

I think there will be some Video up before too long.

Thanks for the last picture Jacob

[Duuuuuuuude]

Nicely done.


Still trying to decide whether or not I want clapped Rovers.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Nicely done.


Still trying to decide whether or not I want clapped Rovers.

Thanks.

Yesterday had alot of slick rock. Bigger lugged tires didn't do so hot. Sedona's were horrible and rovers were decent. Pins on the comp berg worked good but still it was really slick.

I think having the lugs cut off helped the tire wad up easier and didn't let the front tires hop around on the lugs when you were trying to get the sides to bite on ledges. The smooth sidewall felt like it grabbed the ledges quicker. The closed cell inner foams also contributed to the grabbing quicker too.

Edit. You can see where I have my upper links placed now. I think it's the sweet spot for this chassis/rig.
Rears are in top hole.
Fronts are one hole from top.

[Szczerba]

Course 1 from ARCC comp. Thanks RolandRockShop for the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mxZT...&feature=share

Won't Embed!

[Stormin2u]

Now that's how it's done Shane, nice Sporty rig you have there it looks wicked. Keep an eye on Ashton if he hadn't FU that first course he'd be right there to.

[helhedded]

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Now that's how it's done Shane, nice Sporty rig you have there it looks wicked. Keep an eye on Ashton if he hadn't FU that first course he'd be right there to.

thanks for catching that.

[Stormin2u]

You guys are quite the pair those Sporties you guys have are both amazing. I was glad to see you right there keeping Shane a honest guy if you give him a inch he'll take a mile.

[Szczerba]

Ashton made a poor tire decision with the sedona's on the first course. I mentioned to him several times before the comp how slick the rocks were. Dang kids don't listen these days.

Wait for course 2 video, it gets better.